A Happy Fashion Future at NY Fall 2009 Fashion Week

Bare legs & open toes in the depths of winter. Fur during the August swelter. Teetering, towering heels regardless of the occasion. Fashionistas are not known for being the most practical of creatures, however the same can't be said about fashion designers this season. "New York designers are not out of touch," Jeffrey Kalinsky, director of designer merchandising for Nordstrom, recently told WWD about his impressions of the recent Fall 2009 Fashion Week, which most insiders unanimously agree was dominated by standout collections from Michael Kors, Thakoon, Donna Karan, Jason Wu, and Marc Jacobs. "I was impressed overall with what they turned out.…a lot of product that looks really good and prices that reflect the intrinsic value that the customer is going to be looking for. These are tough times, no question about that, and that business is challenging. For me, it just means being a razor-sharp editor and finding the best New York has to offer."

While many buyers are now operating under the depressing shadow of huge budget cuts, they nonetheless report being pleasantly surprised by the overall balance of positivity, individuality, and wearability at the shows. "I arrived expecting a depressing atmosphere [but] the shows were very positive and optimistic. Everyone kept the same energy,” notes Sarah Lerfel, who buys for Colette in Paris and particularly liked Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim. "The overall mood has really been one of optimism, joy and hope for the future," agrees Colleen Sherin, fashion market director at Saks Fifth Avenue. "This is not the season for somber fashion. The use of color, pops of neon brights and jewel tones really created that optimistic feeling. Many of the collections offered polished investment dressing where you could see the quality and the longevity.…There was a feeling of confident dressing offering protection, security and reassurance,” embodied in black leather, skinny leggings, cozy knits with texture, and cocoon'y shapes.

“The new guard stepped it up by honing in on their own personal aesthetic and presenting collections that had a strong voice and were very focused," says Anne Watson of Henri Bendel, referring to young designers like Phi, Thakoon, Jason Wu, Brian Reyes, and Peter Som. “It is clear these designers have gotten to really know their customers better and are giving her what she loves. The customer needs and wants color now more than ever.” ('Is all black going to help the economy?' Marc Jacobs has widely been quoted as saying after his colorful fall '09 ode to 80s clubwear.) "Ultimately…there was great balance between inspired clothes and realistic clothes,” adds Nicole Fischelis, fashion director of Macy’s. “It’s a lot about fusion — the rough and refined, feminine and rock ’n’ roll, layering and unmatching, tailored with feminine, a bohemian attitude, taking plaids to a new level, winter floral mixes and lots of animal prints.”

According to Ann Watson, fashion director at Henri Bendel, the Fall 2009 New York collections, can be broken down into four main directions:

1. AGGRESSIVE WARRIOR Black leather with a tough-chic vibe. Futuristic fabrics at Rodarte & Proenza Schouler; biker jackets at Alexander Wang - "This is the style of jacket that will be strong for this winter..."We will carry William Rast. I really liked how they treated the denim and I liked the shoulders in the collections." (Sarah Lerfel/Colette)

2. ECLECTIC GYPSY Floaty print frocks paired with chunky tweed knits a la Diane von Furstenberg “that were bold and vibrant with lots of choices that had a strong focus on individual items to be worn creatively with a do-it-my-way personal dress code. We saw lots of refreshing color and novelty treatments such as sequins, embroidery and novelty prints." (Barbara Atkin/Holt Renfrew)

3. REFINED, ELEGANT LADY High-neck blouses, dresses draped in jersey, demure hemlines and anything covered-up. Designers: Chado Ralph Rucci; Michael Kors - "reworked basics...ultramodern, ultraluxe and full of sex appeal"; Thakoon - chic, sophisticated gray coats, tuxedo shirtdresses and black skirt suits; Alexander Wang - tailoring, sexy dresses, leggings; Jason Wu - “beautiful clothes for women of any age who appreciate quality and good taste.” (Jeffrey Kalinsky/Nordstrom) "Luxury materials like cashmere, leather and fur looked important and worth investing in. I also liked the return to the great fall classics like tweed and plaid, which were remixed with more precious fabrics for a fresher look." (Barbara Atkin/Holt Renfrew)

4. 80s FASHION OPTIMIST a full-on fun 80s feel with full skirts and sizeable shoulders. Designers: Isaac Mizrahi; Marc Jacobs as "a feast for the eyes and a tonic for the spirit... sensory overload of the best kind" (Jeffrey Kalinsky)

Fashion insiders' annoint the key pieces for Fall 2009:

SHOULDERS: pronounced shoulders & shoulder pads ("The aggressive shoulder seen on jackets will be the important feature that changes the way we look at silhouettes and just might be the singular most important detail to get customers back into the stores to buy." - Barbara Atkin/Holt Renfrew)
LEATHER: especially black
PRINTS: animal & graphic
JACKETS: blouson; tailored with strong shoulders
SKIRTS: pencil; short & swingy
DRESSES: drapey jersey; bright "electric" colored cocktail frocks
PANTS: skinny leggings; narrow trousers
FUR: especially vests
KNITS: sweater coats & other comfy knits
CAPES
ACCESSORIES: statement necklaces; status scarves; clutches; wide belts; lace tights

KEY COLLECTIONS ON INSIDERS' MUST-HAVE LISTS:

3.1 PHILLIP LIM (Holt Renfrew; Bergdorf Goodman; Colette/Paris)
ANNA SUI (Macy's)
ALEXANDER WANG (Holt Renfrew; Bergdorf Goodman; Kirna Zabete; Colette/Paris; Nordstrom)
BRIAN REYES (Henri Bendel)
CALVIN KLEIN (Macy's; Bergdorf Goodman)
CHADO RALPH RUCCI (Mercury Distribution/Russia)
DEREK LAM ("sensual draping and furs" - Saks Fifth Avenue)
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG (Neiman Marcus)
DKNY ("realistic, contemporary clothes and terrific new items" - Macy's)
DONNA KARAN (Holt Renfrew; Macy's; Bergdorf Goodman; Saks Fifth Avenue; Mercury Distribution/Russia; "wow, what an amazing sexy, sensual collection — the clothes women will be superexcited to put into their wardrobes" - Neiman Marcus)
FABIOLA ARIAS (Ikram)
FENTON (accessories) - Ikram
ISAAC MIZRAHI ("totally innovative, wearable and full of must-haves" - Macy's)
JASON WU (Henri Bendel; Bergdorf Goodman; Kirna Zabete; Nordstrom; "We’re absolutely charmed by Jason Wu’s prints and beautiful details" - Neiman Marcus)
J. MENDEL (Mercury Distribution/Russia)
JOSEPH ALTUZARRA (Ikram)
MARC JACOBS (Canada's Holt Renfrew; Macy's; Bergdorf Goodman; Neiman Marcus; Saks Fifth Avenue; Nordstrom)
MARC BY MARC JACOBS(the "Annie Hall spirit" - Macy's)
MICHAEL KORS (Holt Renfrew; Macy's; Bergdorf Goodman; Neiman Marcus; Saks Fifth Avenue; Nordstrom; Mercury Distribution/Russia)
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ (Bergdorf Goodman; Neiman Marcus; Kirna Zabete)
OSCAR DE LA RENTA (Neiman Marcus, Holt Renfrew)
PETER SOM (Henri Bendel; Kirna Zabete)
PHI (Henri Bendel)
PROENZA SCHOULER (Ikram/Chicago; Kirna Zabete; Colette/Paris)
RAG & BONE (Bergdorf Goodman; "long, lean silhouettes, vests, leggings, tailored jackets and shirtings" - Saks Fifth Avenue)
RALPH LAUREN (Macy's)
RODARTE (Bergdorf Goodman; Colette/Paris)
THAKOON (Bergdorf Goodman; Kirna Zabete; Henri Bendel; Nordstrom)
TOMMY HILFIGER ("true sportswear classics and affordable luxury" - Macy's)
TULEH ("spirited, luxurious bohemian attitude with print combinations" - Macy's)
VERA WANG ("pared-down, understated sophistication" - Saks Fifth Avenue)
VICTORIA BECKHAM (Bergdorf Goodman)