As famed for his lavish parties - 300 guests in exotic Arabian Nights garb on The Thousand and Second Night - & high-flying art pals (Raoul Dufy; Paul Iribe) as he was for his use of lush fabrics, vibrant hues, and luxury silhouettes like the "hobble" skirt which looked great but preventing much in the way of serious striding, Paul Poiret and one-time muse & wife Denise are now the subject of an exhibit at the Met's Costume Institute: Poiret: King of Fashion (through August 5, 2007). In addition to bringing the modern bra to the forefront, along with suspender belts, and flesh-colored stockings, Poiret loved the rose and made it his signature, even naming his eldest daughter Rosine and his first perfume after her. (For more on the exhibit, check out this piece I did for Suite 101; for a fun recent post on some Poiret-inspired fashions & accessories to indulge in, CLICK HERE.)
Diktats, a French bookstore founded by two bibliophiles with a passion for fashion which specializes in rare and antique fashion books, recently released a new catalog devoted exclusively to Poiret. The collection includes rare books about Poiret, books signed by the man himself, and unpublished pieces; in all, there are more than 80 exceptional pieces which encompass the career of the revolutionary couturier. Some highlights of the catalog:
- a rare, black leather-bound copy of the first autobiography written by Paul Poiret with an inscription in verse
- a leather-bound copy of the 1908 Les robes de Paul Poiret racontées par Paul Iribe, inscribed by Poiret to an American woman
- a leather-bound copy of Pan, l’annuaire du luxe in a matching tan leather slipcase containing more than 100 original color plates created by Poiret's artist pals
- a numbered & signed stencil, designed by Georges Lepape for Paul Poiret - and never-before exhibited
- various documents from Poiret's couture house as well as personal papers
- the very first catalog published by the designer's fashion house in 1906
- trade cards illustrated by Bernard Naudin & Bernard Boutet de Montvel
- photos & portraits of Poiret
While the English version of the site isn't launching until the summer, the charming Monsieur Antoine will happily answer any & all questions at [email protected].
- Lesley Scott