Phillip D. Johnson of Lucire Magazine - The Exclusive Fashiontribes Interview with Lucire Magazine's Features Editor Dishes on the Spring 2006 Collections in New York City-Fashion Expert Review-Fashiontribes Fashion blog & podcast
Meet the personable & fabulous Phillip D. Johnson, Features Editor of Lucire Magazine Dish on the Spring 2006 Collections from New York's Bryant Park - Why it's all about the money & the 411 on his much appreciated approach to treating readers like they have a brain.
September 15, 2005 in Fashion, PODCAST, Spring 2006 Runway Shows, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST, Weblogs | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
NY Fashionweek Spring 2006 - Fashiontribes to Podcast Live from New York's NYC Fashionweek. We'll be at Fashion Expert Central - the Tents - Dishing on the Runway Shows, Designers, Fashionistas & the Ridiculousness in General. FASHIONTRIBES FASHION BLOG.
The tents are up in Bryant Park, the city is teeming with ridiculously-attired walking x-rays, designers are in the throws of an all-night panic about their collectively unfinished collections, and snooty parties are in full swing: Yes kids, it's that time o' the year again....Fashionweek.
New York kicks off the Spring 2006 collections, and your Blogette Rachel & I will be in the thick of things, podcasting, photographing, videoblogging & generally making a nuisance of ourselves to capture the whole chic mess for your enjoyment.
We'll also get lots of fun fashion Do's & Don'ts - and from the experience of seasons past, we can promise you there will be doozies of both types.
So tune in starting tomorrow, Friday September 9th until Friday September 16th to get all the dish on what's worth knowing, as well as completely worthless but oh-so-fun anyway.
- Lesley
Fashiontribes Fashionweek New York Fashionweek NYC Fashionweek New York Spring 2006 Collections Bryant Park Fashion Spring Fashion Fashion Expert
September 8, 2005 in Fashion, Fashiontribes Files, PODCAST, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST, Weblogs | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack
La Dolce Divas - An Excellent New Blog Devoted to Living a Fabulous Life After a "Certain Age" - From Fashion Expert Commentary to Lifestyle to Beauty to Cuisine & Fine Wine, These Ladies Have it Covered. FASHIONTRIBES FASHION BLOG & PODCAST BLOG REPORT
The little black dress: boring or fabulous? Discuss
What do dolce divas eat for lunch?
Is dessert a do?
Why don't Frenchwomen get fat?
Is there a great bottle of wine out there for $12?
The answers to these pressing questions & oh-so-much more, mes amies, is at the newest Fashiontribes daily guilty pleasure: La Dolce Divas blog: LaDolceDivas.blogspot.com.
Divas Leigh & Anne - corporate lawyer types by day...& fabulous pretty much the rest of the time. As chicks who weren't "born yesterday", they pooh-pooh various nonsense American notions of life ending at 40. Wisely eschewing everything from ridiculous self help books for dealing with this non-crisis ("How to Stay Useful", "How to Find Meaning Again", "Time of Mid-life"), peri-menopausal fairy tales, and sensible footwear - pointing out that all that cash blown on treating "conditions" like peri-whatevers could have been much more wisely splurged on fun and fabulous shoes...and we're talking spiky, towering-heeled maneaters thankyou!
Instead, these two lovies are ardent adherents of the far superior European school of thought which worships women of a "certain age" as they take on the world in chic threads, sexy kicks & luscious lipstick. "La Dolce Divas call it as they see it - P.C. is NOT spoken here," they note. "La Dolce Divas may occasionally use a swear word or sneak a cigarette. Too damn bad! La Dolce Divas have been there, done that, and want a cashmere sweater instead of a stupid t-shirt. And a glass of wine. Good wine. Very good wine."
Right on, ladies!
- Lesley
Fashiontribes Fashiontribes Files La Dolce Divas Fashion Lifestyle Cuisine Wine Over 40 Fashion Dos & Don'ts Fashion Expert
August 31, 2005 in Blog Report, Fashion, PODCAST, Parties and Entertaining, Pop Culture, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST, Weblogs | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
A Suit - Fall Fashion Must-Have Says Fashion Expert Constance White, Style Director of eBay.com. Louis Vuitton to Balenciaga to Boudicca (to Victoria's Secret!) We Found Options Galore for Each Tribe. FASHIONTRIBES FALL SHOPPING FASHION BLOG & PODCAST
We recently chatted with fashion insider Constance White, ebay.com's style director and spokesperson (CLICK HERE to hear our fun, in-depth interview...including her much-needed - and, we think, definitive - take on the high-waisted pant debate).
At the top of her list of fall wardrobe must-haves is the little suit. "It really epitomizes the new look," says White. "The jacket for the baby boomer woman is a great wardrobe piece. She immediately feels pulled together, without having to hold her gut in or without having to lose weight." For recent college grads, the jacket works for all the same reasons - but until recently, it hasn't really been a wardrobe staple. "I wouldn't go so far as to say she's never worn a jacket, but she's never really reveled in it or it's never really been important. She probably came into things when sweater sets were amok."
If you're like us at Fashiontribes & drooling for a suit, here are some fab options for each and every tribe.
AFRO LOVE
MARNI Up the Afro-licious quotient of this suit by pairing with a silky blouse, rather than a button down, and a knockout necklace. Add some of fall's matte, nubby tights and cute flats or round-toe pumps & off you go.
CARMEN MARC VALVO A less suit-y suit is this velvet jacket & chiffon skirt combo - but it's still coordinated enough to read "suit." NeimanMarcus.com
VICTORIA'S SECRET The slouchy pant is simply yummy (yes, that's a highly technical term) & budget-friendly too. VictoriasSecret.com
DOWNTOWN DOLL
MISSONI Think monochrome on the top & bottom, and mix up the fabrics for some variety.
HOCKLEY & ROLAND MOURET Make your own suit by pairing this Hockley black & white rabbit cropped jacket from Net-a-Porter.com with a curve-conscious wool & cashmere fishtail number from Roland Mouret, also from Net-a-Porter.com. 
J.CREW Schoolboy-meets-Sexy Siren in this can't-miss combo of cashmere schoolboy blazer & a Prince of Wales plaid Swishtail Skirt from JCrew.com.
FANCY FLIRT
GUCCI The lace overlay on the skirt is exquisite, and the balloon-sleeve jacket is simply love-love-love.
DOLCE & GABBANA No one does sexy like the Italians, especially Domenico & Stefano...and in black too - fall's new "it" color. NeimanMarcus.com 
VICTORIA'S SECRET Or, stand out in the sea of black that will be fall in lipstick red. VictoriasSecret.com
GLOBAL CHIC
LOUIS VUITTON The suit of the season, it's like fashion paydirt.
PRADA Ladylike & sexy-as-hell at the same time.
CHANEL COUTURE This suit is love.
ROCK PUNK
GIORGIO ARMANI...believe it or not. How rockin' are these knickers?
BOUDICCA A take-no-prisoner's kinda suit.
BALENCIAGA Worth committing felonies for.
Note: All runway pix from Style.com.
Fashiontribes Fall Fashion Must Haves Suits Constance White ebay Shopping Marni Missoni Dolce & Gabbana Boudicca Giorgio Armani Balenciaga Louis Vuitton Prada Podcast Carmen Marc Valvo Roland Mouret Gucci J. Crew Net-a-Porter Victoria's Secret Fashion Podcast Fashion Expert
August 24, 2005 in Fashion, Fashiontribes 911, PODCAST, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST, Weblogs | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Stylish Yoga Gear - Yoga Journal Says Everybody's Practicing Yoga. Look Fashionable in Yoga Pants from KA & Sivana Spirit, a Chic Coverup by Chibi, Marika Leopard Top, Arm Warmers from YogaGurl, Tops by Be Present & Danskin - FASHIONTRIBES PODCAST & BLOG
It has been estimated that over 20 million Americans practice some form of yoga on a regular basis, and in July/August 2005 issue of Yoga Journal, YogaJournal.com, has an interesting piece entitled Om Town Heroes on just how much America loves its yoga.
From obscure farm towns, to diminutive hamlets in the boonies of Wyoming, to tiny fishing towns in Maine, yogis and yoginis across the country are Downward-facing Dog'ing en masse.
While we're busily getting our insides in order, it's important to make sure to look as good on the outside - if nothing else, as a favor to the others who have to witness you and your sweaty ass contorting about in yoga class. Om.
TOP IT OFF Known more for their ballet & dance gear, Danskin also carries a line of yoga clothing. Their De-Stressed Floral collection of tops make a nice change from those strappy, glorified sports bras. Danskin.com
BOTTOM OUT This 3/4 length, loose-ish pant by KA makes it so you can walk to class in your yoga gear without construction workers & the like whistling appreciatively at your fine, Virabhadrasa-honed rear. Yoga.com 
WEAR YOUR HEART ON YOUR CHEST The soft, lightweight sheer jersey "Be" tee is lightweight enough for practice, features a selection of "be" statements such as "be centered", "be open" & "be loving" - from BePresent.com, a really progressive outfit that has a full line of organic & green-friendly yoga gear for both chicks and guys in colors inspired by the seven chakras. Every year, they donate to a variety of charities such as the MS Awareness Foundation, Easter Seals, Tsunami relief, local food banks, battered women's shelters. Mad props from an appreciative yogini at Fashiontribes!
FORGET LEG WARMERS It's all about arm warmers - how cool! Available in black, charcoal & army green from YogaGurl.com. These 100% cotton cuties feature fun sayings like "Whine Less Breathe More", "I'd Rather be in Savasana" & "Kiss my Asana". They also carry a belly warmer too!
IS THAT A LOTUS ON YOUR LUMBAR? Why yes, it's my Shiva Shakti Lotus crop pant by Marika. Marika.com
HERE KITTY KITTY Meow. Who says you can't practice asana and raise temperatures at the same time? Give this Impala Shell from Prana.com a whirl.
CHILL OUT Instead of a boring hoodie, after class throw on this impossibly chic embroidered bomber in french terry from Chibi. Although it's also available in cream and pale blue, definitely go for black. ChibiOnline.com 
TATTOO YOU We're also mad for this tattoo print shirt - also from the fabulous Chibi. Made from a superfine cotton jersey, I guess you could practice in it, but then again, who really cares.
NICE PANTS Let loose in these drawstring pants from SivanaSpirit.com. The close-to-the-body cut ensures they look comfy, not sloppy.
Fashiontribes Fashion Style Lifestyle Yoga Yoga Clothing Yoga Journal
August 22, 2005 in Fashion, Fashiontribes Files, PODCAST, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST, Weblogs | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Velvet: Fall Fashion Must-Have. Stylist Kendall Farr Says a Velvet Jacket is Fall's #1 Must Own Piece. We Did the Grunt Work and Found Options for Each Tribe! FASHIONTRIBES PODCAST & BLOG
Recently we had a fun & in-depth interview with stylist extraordinaire Kendall Farr (CLICK HERE to check out the podcast & blog). In between styling shoots for chi chi fashion mags, dressing celebs like Sigourney Weaver & Diane Sawyer (but a smidgen of the ones she's allowed to name) & writing a Q&A column for Glamour, Farr somehow found the time to pen The Pocket Stylist (Gotham Books http://www.pocketstylist.com/) - one of the most helpful books on getting your bad self stylishly attired in chic & trendproof threads.
As a fashion insider & stylist in-the-know, we knew it was our duty to pick her brain for Fall's must-haves: those items that no respectable wardrobe should be without this season. Top of her list was a velvet jacket, the Fall number one gotta-have-it that will work equally well with tweed, satin & lace. She suggests getting one that has a slightly nipped in-waist or looks good belted - as long as it works with your body type.
Good style advice transcends mere tribal differences. All the tribes can rock a velvet jacket this fall - it's just a matter of cut, proportion and what you wear it with. As your trusty Fashiontribes Editrix(Lesley) I took it upon myself to ferret out a bunch of good options for each fashion tribe. (The lengths we'll go to around these parts to ensure you remain fashionably attired!)
AFRO LOVE
KENZO A lush boho number that would make Auntie Mame proud.
NEWPORT NEWS Channel the military vibe without wearing a straightjacket with this super-steal ($69!). Newport-News.com 
J.PETERMAN A romantic velvet bolero jacket from JPeterman.com even comes with a story about Paris, a mysterious blonde & an opera. Oh, and it promises to "give definition to any figure without making any demands." What's not to love?
DOWNTOWN DOLL
D&G Who can resist a girl in a cape? Do Red Riding Hood one better in this dashing version.
LA REDOUTE If a cape feels a bit, er, dramatic, go for a velvet boy blazer. Fashiontribes obsession, LaRedoute.com, has your back & at $35, your wallet too.
DKNY Girlie, but not sugary-sweet. NeimanMarcus.com
FANCY FLIRT
GUCCI Sexy in any language.
COSTUME NATIONAL Rocking sexy velvet from head-to-toe takes curves & cahones, perfect for a Fancy Flirt.
GLOBAL CHIC
VALENTINO Get in touch with your inner equestrian. 
VIVRE East meets West in this irresistable Asian-inspired jacket at Vivre.com - and as an added bonus, it's reversible! 
ALICE & OLIVIA From work to weekends, this military-inspired jacket multi-tasks. NeimanMarcus.com
ROCK PUNK
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER COUTURE Light up the night with a touch of Addams family chic.
AKRIS Perfect with ripped jeans & a tough boot.
Note: all runway pics from Style.com.
ALL TRIBES
HOODIE Love the idea, but can't always be bothered with the drama of velvet? Toss this little velvet velour hoodie under a jean jacket, with leather, or in place of a sweater for a no-muss-no-fuss way to rock velvet. A steal at under $20. OldNavy.com
August 16, 2005 in Fashion, Fashion Felonies, Fashiontribes 911, Fashiontribes Files, PODCAST, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST, Weblogs | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Sarah Bailey of Harper's Bazaar - Her Fall Fashion Must-Have Pieces Can Work For Any Tribe & We Show You How - Check it Out! Calling All Fashion Tribes: We Did Your Fall Shopping List Legwork For You - FASHIONTRIBES FASHION BLOG & PODCAST
We recently interviewed Sarah Bailey, Deputy Editor in Chief of Harper's Bazaar magazine. (To check out the blog or hear the podcast, Click Here.) She shared with us her list of Fall indispensables for your wardrobe. As a Global Chic Goddess, Bailey has impeccable taste. But if you find that identify more with one of the other four tribes, don't fret - her Fall shopping list is a blueprint - and your trusty Fashiontribes editor Lesley tweaked it for each tribe.
SARAH'S PICKS FOR FALL - GLOBAL CHIC GIRLS...these are calling your name!
BEAUTIFULLY CUT JACKET: Louis Vuitton
BELTED SWEATER: YSL 
COAT: Miu Miu
WHITE BUTTONDOWN SHIRT: Balenciaga 
SQUELCHY BAG: Tanner Krolle or Marc Jacobs
STUNNING NECKLACE: Louis Vuitton
IMPORTANT BOOT: Boudicca
COCKTAIL DRESS: Alexander McQueen
SARAH'S PICKS TRANSCEND MERE TRIBAL DIFFERENCES...WHEN YOU REALLY THINK ABOUT IT, A LOT OF IT BOILS DOWN TO CUT, WHAT YOU PAIR THINGS WITH, AND THE ACCESSORIES YOU CHOOSE:
AFRO-LOVE PICKS:
BEAUTIFULLY CUT JACKET: Marni; Basso & Brooke
BELTED SWEATER: Alexander McQueen
COAT: Kenzo; Louis Vuitton
WHITE BUTTONDOWN SHIRT: Comme des Garcons; Viktor & Rolf
SQUELCHY BAG: Valentino
STUNNING NECKLACE: Anna Sui
IMPORTANT BOOT: Anna Sui; Etro
COCKTAIL DRESS: Akris; Emilio Pucci
DOWNTOWN DOLL OPTIONS:
BEAUTIFULLY CUT JACKET: Dries van Noten
BELTED SWEATER: Kevin Johnn; Hermes
COAT: Christian Lacroix
WHITE BUTTONDOWN SHIRT: Stella McCartney; DSquared2
SQUELCHY BAG: Fendi
STUNNING NECKLACE: Marc by Marc Jacobs; A.F.Vandevorst
IMPORTANT BOOT: Michael Kors; Marc by Marc Jacobs
COCKTAIL DRESS: Chloe; Temperley
FANCY FLIRT FALL MUST-HAVES:
BEAUTIFULLY CUT JACKET: Gucci
BELTED SWEATER: Sweetface
COAT: Balenciaga
WHITE BUTTONDOWN SHIRT: Dolce & Gabbana
SQUELCHY BAG: Versace
STUNNING NECKLACE: Roberto Cavalli
IMPORTANT BOOT: Dolce & Gabbana
COCKTAIL DRESS: Emanuel Ungaro; Roberto Cavalli
ROCK PUNK GEAR:
BEAUTIFULLY CUT JACKET: Boudicca
BELTED SWEATER: Roberto Cavalli (okay - not technically a sweater, but the right vibe.)
COAT: Valentino 
WHITE BUTTONDOWN SHIRT: Viktor & Rolf
SQUELCHY BAG: Giorgio Armani
STUNNING NECKLACE: Missoni
IMPORTANT BOOT: Christian Dior; Manolo Blahnik
COCKTAIL DRESS: Allesandro dell'Acqua; D & G
August 9, 2005 in FALL 2005 FASHION WEEK, Fashion, Fashiontribes 911, Fashiontribes Files, PODCAST, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST, Weblogs | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Fashion Stylist Secrets for Trendproof Style: Kendall Farr, Author of "The Pocket Stylist" Explains How Your Body's Silhouette Holds the Key to Foolproof Chic; Also, Key Wardrobe Pieces; the Best Fall Collections & Must-Haves -FASHIONTRIBES PODCAST & BLOG
Even the most seemingly perfect woman obsesses over her body’s “flaws” – both real and imagined. Just ask Kendall Farr.
“I had been working on one celebrity shoot after another, and listening to one sort of seemingly perfect woman after another kind of rip herself apart,” explains Farr, a fashion stylist for countless celebs, magazine editorials, high end catalogs, and Glamour magazine's Q&A columnist. “It made me think if these women have this kind of odd dissatisfaction with their bodies and a difficulty in really understanding what suits them – with professionals surrounding them, you’d think that they would have access to the best information and would absorb it – I thought, ‘well how does the average girl on the street feel about all this stuff?’”
After pondering this dilemma for a good five years, Farr decided to weigh in with her thoughts and wrote the now-bestselling The Pocket Stylist (Gotham Books) (PocketStylist.com) to bridge the “whopping disconnect” between what fashion magazines and TV shows feature, and what a woman really needs to know to dress herself stylishly. “I wanted to demystify that process from a stylist’s standpoint, and share with the reader everything that I’ve learned in my almost 15 years of doing this,” explains Farr. “And I figured that if I could just create some sort of a really commonsense blueprint for my reader based on all of this stuff that professionals know, she’d have a kind of forever-tool to take with her whenever she shops.”
DEM BONES, DEM BONES: THE SECRET TO STYLE
Unlike the majority of style books currently flooding the market, which break apart a woman’s body into a series of fashion “troublespots” that need to be “solved” such as a big ass, flat boobs, fat stomach, etc. – an approach Farr deems “ass-backward” – Farr’s approach is decidedly different. She approaches the female figure like a designer: first analyzing the the relationship between the width of the shoulders and the width of the hips, and then considering what happens in between. “A woman has to understand her bone structure, just like architecture. Your bones are your bones are your bones. Whether you have a large bone structure, an average bone structure, or a small bone structure – that’s you for life. Our weight will naturally go up and down in a lifetime, but dressing our frames, our natural silhouettes, is the one constant we have in this lifelong dialogue with clothes. There will be certain shapes and proportions that will always create slam dunk silhouettes on your body at any size.”
REMEMBER: Yes, your “trouble” spots are important to consider, but they should not be your starting point. Only after you’ve determined your bone structure – your silhouette or “torso proportion” – should you pay them any mind. “They’re a way to best define your individual fit,” advises Farr, “but you plug those things in afterwards.”
THE THREE BASIC SILHOUETTES
Regardless of whether you are average or plus sized, there is one of three basic silhouettes that apply to everyone. Plus-sized proportions, which Farr calls “full fashion bodies”, are simply more voluptuous variations on the basic torso proportions - and the same basic set of rules applies.
BODY TYPE A The average version of a girl whose shoulders are narrower than the width of her hips. Regardless of whether she is flat- or full-chested, this torso proportion is defined by a definite visual difference between the width of those shoulders and the width of the hips. 
BODY TYPE B The traditional hourglass – allthough Farr herself isn’t in favor of geometry or fruit-derived monikers (“no hourglasses, apples, pears, celery or any of that stuff”) – this girl’s shoulder width is essentially the same as her hip width, and the waist is generally well defined. Bust size can can be anywhere from flat-chested to full breasted. (Again, simply a particular that refines her fit - not a starting point.) 
BODY TYPE C The shoulders are wider than the width of the hips. Broad-shouldered, narrow-hipped models fall into this category. Her waist is usually quite straight, and can be somewhat of a fitting challenge.
EASY BREEZY CHIC IS BUT A UNIFORM AWAY
Once you understand your basic silhouette, effortless chic is well within your grasp. You can look at a fashion editorial or go into a department store and immediately know what will flatter your silhouette - which “shapes and illusions” narrow you out where you are wide, and widen where you aren’t. For example, a Type A girl would widen her relatively narrow shoulders with tops that create visual width – such as a boat neck or ballet neck – with either an A-line skirt or a straight trouser with a subtly flared hem, so the eye skims right over the heavier bottom half. “It’s narrowing where you need it, width where you need it, and the illusion of a much more balanced silhouette.”
By understanding the clothing illusions that flatter you, you have unearthed the secret of style icons like Audrey Hepburn, Lena Horne, Jackie O, Billie Holliday & Marilyn Monroe: the uniform. “There are going to be slight variations on the theme, but essentially, every girl needs a few uniforms. Your shapes are your shapes for a lifetime, and you just have to kind of evolve our style over time based on a few very good uniforms.” Instead of chasing the latest "big look" on the runways, stylish women focus on finding outfits that comprise their uniform and then work it-work it-work it.
WHAT LIES BENEATH: WEAPONS IN THE STYLIST’S ARSENAL
Don’t ruin any first impressions with amateurish mistakes – we’re talking wrinkles, bulges and back bacon here, people. Farr has these handy tips:
JIFFY MINI-STEAMER This little gem banishes wrinkles easily in minutes and is compact enough to stash in a closet or suitcase. (WardrobeSupplies.com)
NIPPLE PETALS Need to go braless? Silicon nipple petals by Fashion Forms make ‘em disappear, whether you’re sporting a halter, something backless, or a wifebeater. (BiggerBras.com)
BRA-LLELUJAH! This “all-hosiery” comfort bra from the fabulous Spanx - sans hooks, seams, and straps to dig into you - supports and reduces. Farr even used it recently on a shoot as a minimizer under a drapey, clingy Pucci dress and “there was absolutely no hint of it.” It also elimates the dreaded “back bacon” bulges caused by other bras. (BareNecessities.com)
TOUPEE TAPE Forget the wimpy stuff that’s sold as double stick tape. Stylists go for Topstick wig tape, available at any beauty supply store. It is meant to keep hair on in a wind storm (as well as J.Lo’s boobs encased that notorious cleavage-bearing Versace number) so it will keep an emergency cuff in place. Just make sure you limit its use to minimal-movement situations…no dancing or other energetic situations. (ADiscountBeauty.com)
YOUR NEW BEST FRIEND: THE TAILOR Ready-to-Wear clothes aren’t. They are mass produced for an “average” customer – a pastiche of a variety of women, so one size fits none; how it fits depends on how your proportions compare to their fit model. So when you purchase a garment, add into the price how much it will cost for the tailor to slim down baggy sides or alter cuffs so they hit you exactly where they’re supposed to at the wrist or ankle. Most anything is fixable at the tailor, except of course for that fashion “find” of the century which is three sizes too big, or an irresistible discount that clings to your curves like sausage casing. TAILOR TIP FROM FARR: Make sure the person who’s actually going to alter your clothes is the same person who pins it on you. “This is very, very important because they have really felt the fabric and get a sense of what’s going on, and have seen your body in it to do the best job with the sewing.”
CARRY A MEASURING TAPE WITH YOU…ALWAYS Carry your key measurements with you when you shop – shoulder to shoulder, bust, natural and low waist, high & low hip, thigh & rise – as well as a measuring tape. That way, if the dressing room line is around the block, you can simply measure things right on the hanger and pretty much know if they’ll fit. “For items like jeans and pencil skirts, if you know your low hip measurement, just run a tape across the front of the garment, and multiply by two in your head, you’ve got a ballpark range. Then you feel the amount of stretch and you can figure out if that’ll work or not.”
SIZING FAIRY TALES Commercial sizes are completely arbitrary and depend where a garment is made, the company’s fit model, and what the designer’s concept of a woman’s body is all about. If you know your shape, proportions, and what flatters you, don’t worry about sizes. In fact, Farr advises taking a range of three sizes into the dressing room. “Don’t even worry about the number, worry about what fits.” - WORSHIP THE “ALMIGHTY UNBROKEN LINE”! Meaning: no crimes against good taste & a flattering silhouette such as bellies hanging out, back bacon, thongs peeking over waistbands and plumber’s crack. “You don’t want to break your body up. You want to think about ways with color, texture, and shape to create the longest looking unbroken line on your body.”
THE IMPORTANT FALL COLLECTIONS
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN “In a luxury fashion-laboratory way, I absolutely loved Alexander McQueen. I thought it was masterful tailoring. Watching it I was reminded of Hitchcock’s Marnie with Tippi Hedren, and thinking about that kind of smoulder in clothes like that. It’s the velvet hammer over the sledgehammer approach, and I thought that was sophisticated and very beautiful.” 
LANVIN “I also loved Lanvin for the same reason. I think those clothes are spectacular.” 
BURBERRY “I loved Burberry – a lot. I thought that it had wit, style and sophistication. And I loved the pattern mixes.” 
LOUIS VUITTON Another Farr fave for the “subtly sexy” vibe, the exquisite peplum jackets and couldn’t-be-more-ladylike skirts. 
MARC JACOBS & ROCHAS Although she’s a fan of both collections, Farr is of the mind that their explorations in volume – wide, bell shaped skirts, and wide jackets with narrower jackets – are going to take time to filter down to the mainstream. “I applaud him [Marc Jacobs] for taking risks, I think he’s incredibly smart. It’s just going to take a little time for those ideas to filter in, to germinate in the world. I think his collection is one of those things that you have to go to the store and look at the individual items, and kind of pull it apart that way because frankly, a lot of those silhouettes are very, very tough to wear. Although it couldn’t be more luxurious and beautiful when you look at the individual items, and fabrics and all the hallmarks of what makes the collections great, they’re just not reality based.” (Marc Jacobs; Rochas)
THE INDISPENSABLES: TRULY TRENDPROOF ITEMS
Before you start your Fall shopping extravaganza, make sure you’ve got your bases covered. You can’t ice the cake before you’ve baked the damn thing (or whatever that saying is). For timeless style that transcends the trends, do not pass go until you’ve got these Farr-approved essentials in your wardrobe:
BOTTOMS:
PANTS:
DARK - FOR DAY In a simple, skimming cut and crisp fabric (Nanette Lepore at Nordstrom.com)
DARK - FOR NIGHT Fuller leg in a drapey fabric (Velvet Armani Collezioni pants at SaksFifthAvenue.com)
JEANS:
FOR FLATS Hemmed shorter to wear with flats and sneakers (Gap.com)
FOR HEELS Hemmed longer. (Antik jean at GoClothing.com)
SKIRTS:
PENCIL, TROUSER OR A-LINE SKIRT in black or lightweight wool (Dana Buchman skirt at Nordstrom.com)
A-LINE, BIAS OR CIRCLE SKIRT in a drapey fabric for day or evening (Chloe skirt at NeimanMarcus.com)
SKIRT IN A NEUTRAL, MIXABLE FABRIC Perhaps a subtle chalk stripe or tweed. (BrooksBrothers.com)
TOPS:
WHITE BUTTON DOWN A no brainer (theory from NeimanMarcus.com)
WHITE T-SHIRTS (Adam & Eve Tee from Vivre.com)
SWEATERS:
BLACK That tonally matches your black bottoms (Donna Karan Collection at NeimanMarcus.com)
NEUTRAL in a skin flattering tone (Chloe at NeimanMarcus.com)
RICH COLOR (Marc by Marc Jacobs at NeimanMarcus.com)
JACKETS
TAILORED It should match your dark pants (best bet: get a suit) (Dolce and Gabbana from NeimanMarcus.com)
SPORTY Bombers, motorcycle styles & windbreakers are good choices in fabrics like leather, suede, corduroy, soft wool or cotton twill (JCcrew.com)
COATS
TRENCH Good for the rain & between seasons – choose a neutral or black. (Burberry Trench at SaksFifthAvenue.com)
KNEE-LENGTH For in-between seasons. For night & day both – opt for leather, suede or tropical-weight wool. (Valentino Red at SaksFifthAvenue.com)
WINTER COAT Invest in the best fabric you can possibly afford. (Balenciaga)
DRESS or matching separates that create a dress. Always have a little black dress on hand. (Narciso Rodriguez at Net-a-Porter.com)
KENDALL FARR’S PICKS FOR FALL: THE HITCHCOCK HEROINE
Once you’ve got all the basics, it’s time to splash out and have some fun. “This is a great season,” notes Farr. “I love this sort of reframing of the concept of luxury.” Bright beading and bling have been replaced with lower key surface treatments like burnished metal studs and grommets; sophisticated tonal combinations of florals and solids abound, as well as velvet, lace, satin, tweed, and faux fur. “Fashion is really reframing its sensibility and we’re moving away from an obsession with the Hiltons and onto the cool sexiness of the Hitchcock heroine. I love that. My picks are based on the velvet hammer versus the sledgehammer.” (Photo of Tippi Hedren from Hitchcock's Marnie: Taschen.com)
VELVET JACKET Number one Fall must-have & your indispensable piece – maybe with a little bit of a nipped waist, or one that looks good belted. It will look as good with your trouser-cut jeans, as it will with tweed, satin or lace. Just make sure it fits you well, and is a version of the trend “that works uniquely well for your body.” (Jean Paul Gaultier Couture; Costume National)
BLACK OR NAVY JACKET OR COAT Try one with a little bit of a military reference, be it subtle buttons or the construction. (Balenciaga)
GIRLIE, ROMANTIC WHITE BLOUSE A perfect way to soften menswear tailoring & classic, structured pieces. (YSL Rive Gauche)
TROUSER JEAN An easy way to embrace the high-waisted pant trend, without any unflattering side effects. “The dirty reality of really high-waisted jeans is that they are the territory of models. But the jean that rests right at your navel, or slightly below it, is comparatively very high waisted considering what’s been going on.” Opt for a trouser jean – Salt & J.Crew both make good ones – as they will make everything in your wardrobe look a bit newer. “It brings it all together. It brings together denim, it brings together menswear, and you can put your femme’ist gear on top and you’ve got that high/low mix, boy/girl mix, denim-and-luxe-fabrics mix, it’s an easy easy way to make a current look happen.” (J.Crew.com)
TONAL COLOR COMBINATIONS Fashion’s move into subdued hues means it’s never been more affordable to look luxe for less. “We’ve moved away from a lot of brights and more obvious embellishment, so it’s a little bit easier to make things look expensive on a budget.” Farr advises going for tonal combinations that “relate” to each other, such as red or port wine combined with a deep red, browns and earth tones, or green with teal. Pair any of these colors with all that black you’ve already got in your closet for a fresh take on this inky hue. (Prada)
A TOUGH BOOT For everything from skirts to your new velvet jacket, a great boot is your Fall passport to style. Farr favors the uber-chic lace-up one from Burberry, with a stacked, chunky heel. “It’s going to make a lot of my last year’s skirts and nipped jackets look pretty new, just by belting my waist and the addition of that boot.” (Burberry)
ALL PURPOSE BELT Splurge on one in a rich color to belt jackets and sweaters. Take your cue from Prada: a pencil skirt, sweater & belt combo, especially in a tonal combination like a wine-colored sweater paired with a red belt. “That’s a look that a girl can work at any pricepoint.” If you’re on a budget, just take last season’s fave sweater and add the new belt. (Prada)
STRUCTURED BAG Prada & Alexander McQueen both make great ones, and there are great lower priced versions on the market. Opt for frame bags with valise shapes, and look for faux croc, studs, grommets and other interesting surface treatments. (Alexander McQueen)
AN IMPORTANT NECKLACE You could shell out megabucks for one like the Louis Vuitton tiger’s eye, jet bead and velvet stunner, or, for a tenth of the price simply make your own - just like the crafty Farr. “You can create your own thing which is always the most individual and, I think, the most intelligent approach to style anyway. Plus, there’s no waiting list.” (Louis Vuitton)
MATTE TIGHTS A flattering and easy way to update is with matte tights whether it’s a tonal combination of a deep colored pump, a colored shoe with brown and brown tones, plum and red tones or deep wine & red, camel or vicuna with brown. “Many collections worked that matte tight and round toe pump to great effect because when you’re looking for an inexpensive way to spiff up last season’s gear, those tonal combinations are really a good way to go.” REMEMBER: No brights (bad 80s!) & go for colors that flatter your leg. (Louis Vuitton)
DON’T REINVENT YOUR LOOK – TWEAK IT No one needs to totally overhaul their wardrobe for fall. The key thing to remember is that the details should be a lot more subtle. “If you want to tap into a look, sort of that Victoriana-meets-rocker-chick look, just buy a great black belt with grommets or studs and add that into your classics…I’m all about cheap and cheerful. The reality of it is, I think most of us put our serious money into accessories that we can wear into the pavement. And the rest of it is a mix of high and low. (Valentino; D&G; Versace)
Note: all runway pics from Style.com.
August 3, 2005 in Fashion, Fashiontribes 911, Fashiontribes Files, PODCAST, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST, Weblogs | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Fashion Insider Constance White - In-Depth Interview with eBay.com's Style Director: Online Fashion; Fall Fashion Collections & Trends (Victorian, Black, Suits, Sports, Folkloric, Menswear); Fall Wardrobe Must-Haves - FASHIONTRIBES FASHION PODCAST & BLOG
Quick: whose fashion business is worth $3.1 billion – yes billion! – annually, is the number one fashion site online, and is growing like a weed? The Gap? Levis? Neiman Marcus. No, no & no again….drumroll please…eBay.com.
With an online fashion presence this big, we knew it was time to have another chat with the auction giant’s charming and witty style director and fashion spokesperson Constance White for her insights on online fashion, the trends, the Fall collections to pay attention to, and which items should absolutely find their way into your wardrobe this season.
WHAT A COOL JOB!
A former television fashion pundit and style writer for The New York Times, White’s job was created specially for her when eBay executives in California realized they needed a fashion insider, based in New York, who could provide a link to what was being done in San Jose. They sought a fashion editorial point of view because not only do they have a mindbogglingly broad demographic – from girls in their early teens to fashionistas over the age of 60 scattered across the US and the world – but contrary to popular misconception, the majority of their merchandise is brand new…or NWT, “New With Tags” in eBay-speak. “There was a thought as to how to continue this momentum, and make it even better, and one of the areas they needed help in was a more editorial point of view, a merchandising point of view, which really came from within the fashion industry, as opposed to outside of it. And to understand and translate the industry from the point of view of a fashion insider.”
In addition to her role as spokesperson, White’s duties also include advising eBay on how to improve their fashion business and increase fashion shopping on the site. She has developed special shopping auction events by partnering with hot designers like Narciso Rodriguez and Proenza Schouler, and the Seventh on Sixth “Seventh on Sale” sample sale – billed as the world’s largest – which will take place later this fall to benefit the AIDS/HIV initiative. Over 100 of the top designers, from Dolce & Gabbana, to Versace, Donna Karan, Michael Kors, Narciso Rodriguez and more will have thousands of items of womenswear, menswear, home and beauty on sale at rock-bottom prices. Unlike the last Seventh on Sale ten years ago, this one is available to eBay shoppers all over the world.
The open and available nature of online fashion is one of the key characteristics of eBay that White finds exciting, and empowering, to women. “I think it’s that we’ve put the power in her hands, for the most part, while giving her some guidance. By putting the power in her hands, she can go online, so therefore she can shop anytime and any place,” says White. “ Also, the breadth and depth of what’s available is huge.” The downside, of course, to too much choice is confusion, which is why she edits a highly helpful, verbose-free eZine, eBay.com/PersonalStyle, to help a hapless shopper get the 411. “She can go to the eZine, and say, “okay, these are five trends that have been isolated. Now I get it, and I can just click and buy one or two of these pieces.” It’s a mini-eZine, it’s not overwhelming. It caters very much to the web audience, so there’s not a lot of verbiage.”
THE ONLINE FASHION EXPLOSION
With numbers that dwarf the earnings of traditional brick-and-mortar retailers, eBay’s exploding online fashion business mirrors the growth of shopping on the internet, which forecasters estimate will increase by more than 20% this year. Why? Both demographic and behavioral factors. “First of all, you have what I call a Sex and The City phenomenon where we’ll all be sitting around watching TV, and saying, “I want that, I want that, it looks incredible” but, before eBay, what do you do if you’re in a city, as so many people are, which doesn’t have a Neiman Marcus, which doesn’t have a Saks Fifth Avenue, and the closest one is an hour’s drive away.” Now, Carrie’s to-die-for shoes or Miranda’s adorable dress are but a click away, regardless of where you live. White points out that most of us don’t live in large cities, but in small towns and more rural areas bereft of a convenient high fashion emporium. “People have become so much more interested, and part of the whole Sex and the City influence is that people have become a lot more sophisticated about fashion, therefore with eBay – which is very much about having your own experience – they’re able to access that and be comfortable shopping that way: “Let me see what I like. Let me bid on this or that.””
WHERE IS THE NEXT BIG THING? A JUMBLE OF TRENDS & NO OVERARCHING THEMES
From high-necked, long-skirted Victorian primness to folkloric and Russian themes to the 60s, the fall runways were filled with a head-spinning array of subjects. But where do they converge? “I don’t see any overarching themes,” agrees White. “And I think it’s a good thing when it’s a jumble, as long as women are more sophisticated about fashion.” She notes that fashion journalists (like herself & yours truly) help to translate the runway for non-insiders and instead of enslaving them to a single trend, give women fashion freedom. “A woman can choose what suits her body, what suits her mood, rather than how it was 20 years ago: okay, here are the two trends. If they don’t work for you, you better wear The Gap. And we’re talking about when The Gap was a t-shirt and a pair of jeans,” she explains. “I would say it’s going to be a great fall season because there are a lot of options and because everything is new. It’s a new look coming out from summer and what we’ve been revelling in for the past couple of years, and that’s exciting. And the season has several different trends to appeal to different kinds of fashion personalities…From Victorian, to the Eastern European influence, folkloric influence, menswear influence, black and white – I think it’s going to be interesting to see which of these trends women pick up on.” (pics from left to right: Jean Paul Gaultier Couture, Christian Dior Couture, Chanel Couture)
THE TRENDS:
BLACK IS BACK “We’re about to bury pink, finally, as a fashion trend. Some of the biggest news for fall is the return of darker colors, like black in particular. For fall, we expect a lot of black, and black & white. In addition, jewel colors like teal and ruby, wine.” (Louis Vuitton)
VICTORIAN “COVERED-UP” SEXY "The Victorian silhouette is going to be another big trend – what I call “covered up” sexy,” says White. From high necklines to velvets and dressmaker details, this silhouette “exudes womanliness and sexiness. It’s an 80s influence, as epitomized by the controversial (and hugely influential) Marc Jacobs collection.” She explains that while the straight-off-the-runway look will not enjoy widespread appeal, elements of this influential collection will. “When you break it apart, there are several pieces and ideas which were great and interesting and intriguing, and they also are quite wearable. Worn with a pair of jeans, for instance, not from head-to-toe. We’re going to see the influence of these dark colors, and he had these great capelets, and the whole idea of the long skirt, the whole point he made about the low heel and the flat shoe, bows and dark flowers. These are all going to be picked up and incorporated into wearable, more accessible clothes.” (Rochas; the rest: Marc Jacobs) 
FASHION GOES FOLKLORIC From the Russian-theme so prevalent in many collections, to folklorically-inspired garments, to Gaultier Couture’s recent ode to Ukrainian garb, fashion’s Boho-Hippie has gone ethnic. “As a vivid example, this might be translated into a velvet smock, and you might wear that as a dress with boots, but you can also wear it over a long skirt.” (Dries Van Noten)
SKIRT (SUIT) THE ISSUE “For Fall, I would probably say the return of little skirt suit has not been talked about that much, and should be." (YSL Rive Gauche) 
MENSWEAR There’s never been a better time to channel your inner Garbo. (John Galliano)
SPORTY SPICE “Another trend for fall not to be overlooked is the whole sports influence. We’ve have it for years, so it’s easy to overlook it, but the sports influence continues unabated,” says White, explaining that the subject of sports has become an integral part of everday life. “Whether you’re talking about obesity, it’s inevitable you’re going to talk about exercise. If you’re talking about women and if 50 is the new 40, it’s inevitable you’re going to talk about exercise and sports. If you’re talking about who our super-celebrities are, it’s inevitable that you’re going to mention everyone from Tiger Woods to Venus Williams – it’s just so much a part of who we are.” From sneakers to stiletto heels influenced by sneakers, or gowns with a racerback style workout bra in the bodice, sports will continue to influence fashion heavily. “In addition, I think the reason sports continues, and will continue to be so influential, is our lifestyles – we’re influencing fashion with our lifestyles and women are saying, “I want to be more comfortable.” And most of the ideas for making comfortable but fashionable clothes – a lot of them come from sports.” (John Galliano; Narciso Rodriguez; Anna Sui)
DOING YOUR FASHION HOMEWORK – FOR YOUR FALL WARDROBE, WHITE RECOMMENDS TAKING YOUR CUE FROM THESE COLLECTIONS:
CALVIN KLEIN This collection “really summed up many of the great trends of the season" and was "very accessible.” 
PRADA “Really defined the season.” 
MARC JACOBS ”For a woman who wants to see a more creative direction and see fashion in its extreme, but done provocatively.” 
LANVIN For beautiful ladylike - but interesting - romantic clothes 
BALENCIAGA 
YSL RIVE GAUCHE From little jackets with pants, to skirt suits, Stefano Pilati nailed it this season, capturing the “new chic” – along with Lanvin, “and to a lesser extent, Louis Vuitton.” 
MICHAEL KORS 
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ 
ROCHAS White dubs this collection “provocatively beautiful” and “very interesting.” She notes that, like Marc Jacobs, the collection is so cerebral (fashionspeak for unwearable...unless you’re Isabella Blow) he would “do well to knock himself off, because then you can dilute it and break it apart, and everyone copies it, takes it forward and makes it very interesting and wearable.” 
TRACY REESE 
CHLOE 
DEREK LAM Even though this less well-known designer was criticized by some for drawing too much on Phoebe Philo’s work (the designer of Chloe), White found this collection very interesting. "For the woman looking for direction, and for something that was important to the season, Derek Lam is a good one.” 
ANDREW GN (pronouned “gen” – with a hard "g") “Of the designers that are too often overlooked, Andrew Gn did some incredible coats, just exquisite.” Unlike Balenciaga’s “severe, architectural, and sublime” coats, Gn’s were “feminine and fussy and beautifully done.”
ONCE YOU’VE STUDIED THE COLLECTIONS, IT’S TIME TO GO SHOPPING: THE MUST-HAVE ITEMS:
BOOT OR FLAT SHOE (Marc Jacobs) 
LITTLE SUIT Whether you pair the jacket with a dress or pants, it’s really important to have a little jacket. “It really epitomizes the new look.” White speculates that the little jacket reappeared as a counterweight to all “the casual, the sweater, the cardigan, the dress without the jacket, the anything-without-the-jacket there’s been so much of for almost two years or more.” Also, you can throw on a jacket and look effortlessly chic. “The jacket for the baby boomer woman is a great wardrobe piece. She immediately feels pulled together, without having to hold her gut in or without having to lose weight.” For recent college grads, until now, the jacket has never really been an important part of her wardrobe. “I wouldn’t go so far as to say she’s never worn a jacket, but she’s never really revelled in it or it’s never really been important. She probably came into things when sweater sets were running amok.” (Carolina Herrera) 
DRESSES Dresses will be huge this fall, so buy lots. (Lanvin) 
NECKLACES Long necklaces will continue to replace the chandelier earrings as “a focal point.” (A.F. Vandevorst; Missoni) 
BRACELETS Don't put yours back into storage just yet.(NeimanMarcus.com) 
METALLICS/SHINE as well as clothing that’s jeweled. (D&G; Missoni) 
FUR Lay hands on some fur. "It might be a fur jacket, or it might be a fur handbag.” (She likes the sheared ones.) (Anna Sui; Versace) 
SOMETHING VELVET Try a velvet ribbon, bow or smock. (Derek Lam; Louis Vuitton) 
BLACK The triumphant return of this slimming, no-brainer color. (Doo.Ri) 
BURGUNDY OR RUBY “For something that’s more exciting emotionally (than black), I would go for something like a burgundy, burgundy/ruby.” (Christian Lacroix) 
A FABULOUS COAT “This isn’t a must-have, but this is the season to feel free to really make a fashion statement with a coat, because coats were huge.” (Balenciaga)
AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, WHITE SETTLES THE GREAT HIGH-WAISTED PANT DEBATE:
As an admitted short-waisted fashionista, White has the good sense to give high waisted pants - currently creeping back into fashion - a miss. “You can pass on them,” she acknowledges. “Let the person who’s like 5’11” and is all waist.” She also adds that to pull off high waisted pants, heels are absolutely mandatory, especially platforms, so you would “miss the fun of going into flats.”
NOTE: All runway pics from Style.com.
July 26, 2005 in Fashion, Fashiontribes 911, Fashiontribes Files, PODCAST, Pop Culture, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Project Runway’s Kevin Johnn – Interview with the Designer About How the Show Changed his Life, His Fall Collection “You”, & the Proper Way to Pronounce Donna Karan’s Name – WEEKLY FASHIONTRIBES FASHION PODCAST
Despite being catapulted from working New York designer to a face familiar to millions of addicted Project Runway viewers, Kevin Johnn - KevinJohnn.net – remains refreshingly friendly and unaffected.
A graduate of the Art Institute of Chicago, Johnn has worked for everyone from Thierry Mugler to Donna Karan – the correct pronounciation of which still remains a mystery. “I worked at Donna Karan before I went on Project Runway. But I worked at Donna ke-RAN, not Donna “Karen” – and I would be corrected. But I could never say that to people, it was too affected. I would say Donnan Karan.Doesn’t everybody call it Donna Karan…who calls it Donna Ke-RAN?”
Fashiontribes got the dish from this soft-spoken charmer on everything from how the Emmy-nominated show changed his life to his we’re-all-the-same-underneath inspired Fall collection.
FIRST THINGS FIRST: HOW PROJECT RUNWAY CHANGED HIS LIFE (THINK INTERNET STALKERS & ADORING - & HUNGRY - CUTE YOUNG THANGS)
“I think it made me mainstream – now I’m the Ronald McDonald of fashion!” jokes Johnn. In addition to significantly broadening his customer base, it turned him into a celebrity. “I’m unable to go out into the streets, basically, without having a confrontation with someone,” he explains. One besotted fan ran into Johnn on the street, and in a cringeworthy move, tripped and fell flat on her face. “I felt so bad. I didn’t know if I should help her, or keep walking because it was so embarassing. That was the most tragic one.”
In addition to internet adulation – he’s got at least one site devoted to his status as a “Dream Man” – he also gets his share of very cute, very young thangs who have ferreted out the address of his downtown Manhattan studio and have a disconcerting habit of showing up at his downtown Manhattan studio. “I get a lot of young girls – I know my audience, for sure, based on the show, who like me – but there’s a lot of really young girls who would knock on my door to stop by. These girls want to share half a sandwich and a soup with me,” says Johnn with a laugh.
FALL 2005 - A COLLECTION WITH A MESSAGE
As an up and coming designer championed by no less than supa’star English stylist Isabella Blow – she of the extravagant hats! – Johnn’s clothes are characterized by a European flair and intelligent design. “I’m known to be organic, honest, very honest – meaning real – but still modern,” explains Johnn, who was first inspired to become a designer while in Chicago (and still pronouncing the designer's name “Jean Paul go-tee-AIR”). His work has been compared to Alexander McQueen for overall look, and to french designer Thierry Mugler (who he worked for in New York and Paris) for his fitted cut.
Based on the different colors of the skin, Johnn started his Fall 2005 show with a pale blonde model in winter white, and the clothes got progressively more colorful – from café au lait to chocolate brown, on brunette and Latino models – ending with black dresses on black models. “It was called You, and it was basically a statement – as much as I could, as a fashion designer, get away with making a statement,” explains Johnn, an idealist who is deeply bothered by the race divide. “I made it a reference to equal ethnicity, meaning that we’re all kind of the same. Here we are different tribes, but also, we all are one in the whole spectrum of things. It was to show that we’re all the same value – same color, different values.”
THE MUST HAVE PIECES FROM JOHNN’S FALL COLLECTION
COATS This collection has tons of great coats. (I’m lusting after this one.)
TUBE SCARF This camel scarf is handily sewn into a tube shape so it doesn’t fall off your neck
SUEDE, SUEDE, SUEDE ...& with buckles - twice as nice!
FUN KEVIN JOHNN FACTOID
Johnn met designer Thierry Mugler through legendary New York downtown party fixture Susanne Barsch and crafted a showstopper for her nuptials to gym impresario David Barton. “It was a big egg. A rebirth, her wedding was a rebirth. And David Barton was naked, walking down the runway with just a fleshtone leather g-string.”
BACK AGAIN ON PROJECT RUNWAY 2
Fortunately, for Johnn’s legions of Project Runway fans: he’s back for season two! Not only did he design host Heidi Klum’s dresses - while she was over seven months pregnant - he’ll appear in the first couples of episodes. “There’s also a little segment of what’s-he-doing? Production wanted to call is where-is-he-now?” Wisely, he made them re-name it (too many bad, has-been VH-1 Where-Are-They-Now? Connotations).
But don't look for him anytime soon on VH-1 - he hasn’t any plans to disappear, retire, or otherwise rest on his Project Runway laurels anytime soon. "I love what I’m doing, and I’ll be doing it the rest of my life, I know that for sure. I’m not a designer who’s ever going to do anything else. No label ever stays as “the” label or designer stays “the” designer. But they always seem to find their way back. I’ll just keep on going, and if you see me go up or down, just hang on tight, it’s going to be a little bumpy of a ride at times.”
July 19, 2005 in Fashion, Fashiontribes 911, Fashiontribes Files, PODCAST, Pop Culture, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Fall Fashion Trends - Sarah Bailey of Harper's Bazaar In Depth Interview: Fashion's Gone Victorian with Tailored Suits, Lots of Black, Clothes with Volume - Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Lanvin, Rochas, YSL - WEEKLY FASHIONTRIBES FASHION PODCAST
Fall 2005 Fashion Trends From Sarah Bailey of Harper's Bazaar - In Depth Interview: The Summer of Love Has Passed. It's All About Prim Victorian - Beautiful Suits, Well Cut Skirts, Clothes with Volume - Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Lanvin, Rochas, YSL - MP3 File
BRIGHT BOHO BREEZINESS GIVES WAY TO PRIM VICTORIAN
After a summer of carefree girlie fashion flounciness, hippie-deluxe-boho-gorgeousness has given way to a somber Victorian mood, filled with prim suits in dark colors, exquisitely tailored coats, and structured works of fashion art that bring to mind words like “fantastic” and “architecture.” However, initial reactions were mixed; these new skirt lengths and sheer volume of some of the clothes – to the point of bulkiness in some collections - were quite different than what most fashion editors expected to see coming down the runway. “I think some of the bulk in some of those coats and skirts is going to challenge people and I don’t think they’re going to necessarily be confident to wear so much fabric and a look that’s quite so heavy,” explains Sarah Bailey, the deputy editor in chief of fashion bible Harper’s Bazaar. But she feels this new silhouette and the overall feel heralds “a baggier, looser, less kind of sexed-up way of dressing. There’s a new emphasis on tailoring, form, and the architecture of clothing. It’s a serious fashion season, and I think serious fashion fans will really enjoy it.”
Key collections that best represent this tailoring, form & architecture:
Prada 
Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs
“I think both designers were influenced by the archives of Cristobal Balenciaga with this kind of very controlled, refined volume, big sleeves and sort of bubble skirts.” While these garments are not body conscious, they still manage to avoid looking weighed down or bulky, and most imporant of all: they flatter. “There were other experiments in volume as well in the season which were certainly very controversial and not everybody felt was their cup of tea, but I think both of these collections were really very expertly controlled,” says Bailey. “Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton really nailed a new silhouette which I think we’re going to see influencing fashion for a few seasons to come.”
An avid fan of color, Bailey finds herself being seduced by the dark side. “Even though I love to wear color it’s a kind of exciting prospect to wear these really magnificent and beautiful pieces, and I’m kind of excited. I think, “yes! I want to invest and get those pieces into my wardrobe. It’s like I want some of those new flavors in my wardrobe. I’m kind of very turned on by those pieces.”
THE RETURN OF “PURE” DESIGN?
“We’ve been in some very, very rich, crazy, throw-it-all-on seasons, a lot of fashion gets photographed a lot of the time, but it means that certain kind of flashy items lose their allure pretty quickly,” explains Bailey. “We all see a lot of it, and the eye and the palette gets jaded. I think there’s a general kind of jadedness as to what serious design is about. Too much razzle-dazzle, too much bling, too much embellishment.” While some of this new swing away from bling can be attributed to the fashion pendulum, some of it is designers looking for ways to stand out from the celebs that sport their designs. “Designers, I’m sure, are absolutely thrilled that young Hollywood girls wear their clothes all the time and are photographed in them, but designers are also thinking seriously how to differentiate what they do from the celebrity industry.”
As fashion is beginning to move away from extravagant embellishment and an overtly sexy “pop tart” sensibility, designers like Prada and Marc Jacobs are rethinking their craft and forgoing eye-candy for the essential elements of great fashion: interesting design and well-cut shapes – the metier of Cristobal Balenciaga, this season’s muse. “I think designers have been thinking really seriously about how to make clothes special and interesting again, and going back to the pure kind of design thinking. It was a season when you could have accused a lot of designers of playing it safe, or you could look at as getting back to the principles of what they do and really concentrating on making beautiful clothes, and less on the razzle-dazzle. I think it’s a return to thinking about clothes in a really kind of pure way, and a revolutionary designer like Balenciaga I think is just where they want to be looking and studying.”
EDIE SEDGWICK IN SIBERIA: WHEN BAD THEMES HAPPEN TO GOOD FASHION 
Although “pure” design is back, some designers didn’t get the memo. From Edie Sedgwick’s go-go 60s to Russia-With-Love, “there are some very strident themes in the fall collections…they are very pronounced and very loud.” While Bailey enjoys elements of these collections such as the return of velvet in many of the Russian-themed collections, overall, she found these shows a little too costume-y and "yammering to necessarily wholeheartedly embrace, and less interesting than the more profoundly interesting collections [that] are not overtly themed or gimmicky.”
ONE TREND THAT SIMPLY NEEDS TO GO AWAY
A trend bubbling up from the street that has been duly noted, but wisely not acted upon in any way by Harper’s Bazaar is leggings. And Bailey? “Violently against.”
THAT OH-SO-CONTROVERSIAL MARC JACOBS COLLECTION
Roundly condemned by many as unspeakable in the immediate aftermath of collective editor rage over a show (a) inconviently located away from the tents at Bryant Park, and (b) it began hours late and didn’t end until around 10 pm, delayed (as rumor has it) for, yes, celebrities, the Marc Jacobs show was controversial to say the least. Dominated by oversized silhouettes and dark colors – which garnered unkind comparisons to sacks, and the like – once hurt feelings were assuaged in the days that followed, fashion editors began to reconsider what may just prove to be a repeat of the shockwave caused by Jacobs’s infamous and hugely influential grunge collection for Perry Ellis in 1992.
“I think it’s one of those collections that’s fascinating. The longer you sit with it, the more relevant it seems, says Bailey. “I think it was audacious and it certainly shocked people, but on reflection, I think ‘how marvelous that he had the confidence to do that. The longer I’ve looked at these clothes, and worked with them at Harper’s Bazaar and sent them out to various shoots, and the editors have gotten excited about them, the more that collection makes sense to me. But I think the further I’ve gotten into the season, the more I’m enjoying and appreciating that collection.” Part of what Bailey finds so compelling about this collection, inspired by the sulky, morbid teenager Violet in the animated movie The Incredibles – what makes the collection so “relevant” – is that it is so on-trend with the overall melancholy, Victorian mood dominating the runways.
“The more I return to it and look at those little flashes of color, that gorgeous purple, that lovely mustard-y yellow, the more I think he’s really got a handle on how to work color into your fall wardrobe, which is going to be a very dark season, and there’s a real design intelligence there. The more I think about it, the more impressed I am by it.” In particular, she finds the knock-out chartreuse number with an overlay of black tulle twisted into a rose “romantic, sort of sad, and melancholy…I think, “oh, how delicious.” It was so surprising, I was almost not ready for it.”
DESIGNERS BELOVED BY BAZAAR:
ROCHAS All hail Olivier Theyskens for his “beautiful, exquisite collection.” How did he manage to make long, ruffled Victorian skirts look…desirable? “There’s a real control in that cutting, and structuring, of the garment because long, bustled skirts are not exactly the most wearable skirt shape for the contemporary woman and yet, he’s managed to make those skirts look so desirable, you just feel that yes, you would like to be walking into a cocktail bar wearing one. It’s amazing… the heartbreaking romanticism – it’s absolutely glorious.”
LANVIN Design god Alber Elbaz has hit yet another home run, especially with his eveningwear. “He is making really serious and beautiful items of clothing that are meaningful, romantic, and that you’ll want to wear for years to come.” 
BALENCIAGA How does one take a military uniform and transform it into something ab fab? Nicolas Ghesquiere has the knack. “The way that he embraced a theme like military, and yet made it look contemporary and delicious and precisely what you should be wearing, and not at all like costume. It was incredibly well done.” 
YVES SAINT LAURENT Stefano Pilati’s collection of serious, beautiful clothes herald “a different approach to dressing with thick belts cinching the waist – very elegant, very womanly, and yet very subtle and mature …an important collection.” Standout pieces include the elegant belted sweaters and crocheted neckpiece/jabots.
LOUIS VUITTON From his sober suits to beautifully cut jackets to stunning jewelry, Marc Jacobs simply nailed it. Between the influence of Cristobal Balenciaga and Viennese Secessionist architecture – his design team headed to Vienna to soak up this “sad, beautiful moment in European art” – this collection is the result of “thinking in a very un-gimmicky way about clothing and its relationship to the body.” 
PRADA Is it possible to heap more accolades on Ms. Muiccia’s petite head. From the return to black to a dramatic paring down on embellishment, her gorgeous collection is “very serious, back to beautiful shapes…and hugely influential and important.”
SHOPPING WITH SARAH: YOUR HANDY HIT-LIST FOR FAB FALL FASHION
JACKET If you are only going to buy one item this season, make it a beautifully cut Louis Vuitton with bracelet sleeves and a gorgeous neckline. 
SWEATER A belted number from Yves Saint Laurent. 
COAT Bailey has a jones on for an adorable, empire-waisted coat from Miu Miu in purple. “The gorgeous purple that reminds me of candybar wrappers…It’s vaguely Russian-themed, but not overtly. You don’t feel like you’re auditioning for the Hallmark version of Anna Karenina.” 
RED SHOES What better way to shine in a sea of black than with a pair of red shoes! Go for Lanvin’s velvet, round-toed version. “They are the most fairy-tale gorgeous pair of shoes, so I’ve definitely got those on my dance card. I think if you’re wearing a little tulip skirt, a v-neck sweater, probably belted, and a pair of tights and you’ve got a pair of red shoes on, you can just take on the world.” 
WHITE SHIRT Cut all that black with a crisp, white shirt, especially one with a Victorian, almost ecclesiastical feel. Both YSL and Viktor & Rolf make good ones, and Bailey’s got her eye on a “to-die” for one from Balenciaga. “A little pie-crust Victoriana going on, and yet, worn with a pair of neat military pants would look simply so modern.” 
SQUELCHY BAG Bailey has her eye on a “squelchy” beige quilted bag from Marc Jacobs that resembles an “oversized, cartoonish version of a classic Chanel bag with a granny clasp.” She’s also feeling the squelchy bag from UK luxury retailer Tanner Krolle, who who recently received a major style injection by bringing shoe designer Adele Clarke on board. “There’s some really lovely ones in leather that I’ve been having amorous thoughts about. Her new bags are just very squelchy and just right for slinging on your shoulder, and taking over the world.”
JEWELRY The stunning runway jewelry Camille Miceli created for Louis Vuitton – out of materials like velvet ribbon, tiger’s eye and gobstopper-sized stones – are chic must-haves. “I think that’s one of those other pieces that you could buy and wear with a simple black sweater and just feel perfectly on season.”
BOOTS Boots are so important this season (almost more so than shoes!) that they’ve been struggling at Bazaar to name the boot of the season. “There’s so many ways you could go with your boot this season. There are some fabulous flat boots that are fabulously wonderful cropped, and also Victorian boots, flat heel boots, wedge heel boots – a key pair at Balenciaga – and from another British label Boudicca who showed for the first time in New York.”
COCKTAIL DRESSES Alexander McQueen has a beautifully draped emerald green stunner, recently photographed on fashionista Cate Blanchett. “It’s one of those dresses that a girl can have in her closet for years to come.”
(Note: all runway pics from Style.com.)
July 12, 2005 in Fashion, Fashiontribes 911, Fashiontribes Files, PODCAST, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Fashion Insider Constance White, eBay's Style Director, Talks Online Fashion & the Influence of Sports on Fashion in Collections like Narciso Rodriguez & Prada - WEEKLY FASHIONTRIBES FASHION PODCAST
In a recent issue of Fashiontribes.com, we interviewed Constance White, the Style Director & Spokesperson for eBay.com in Buy It Now with eBay's Style Director Constance White: The Fashionable Face of the Online Auction Giant Dishes on Spring Styles, the Influence of Sports on Design & the Web-Friendly Future for Fashion.
The consummate fashion industry insider, White has worked as everything from a style reporter for the highbrow New York Times to a TV correspondent for Full Frontal Fashion. What sets her punditry apart from the pack is a fun and savvy blend of knowledge, experience, and a refreshingly non-elitist approach to style. "I'm an arbiter of both high and low fashion, couture and street. I'm interested in both things with equal passion. I've been going to the couture shows for years, and I love them, but I can also acknowledge when something came right off the street."
At eBay, she is responsible for sustaining and improving eBay's fashion business on the internet, in print, & on TV. She also builds alliances between eBay & the fashion business, and was responsible for pairing them up with design heavyweights like Narciso Rodriguez, Diane von Furstenberg and Proenza Schouler. She also runs an online magazine for eBay called "Personal Style."
The fact is, eBay's fashion business is exploding - it's over $1 billion. "That's bigger than most retail stores; that's a lot of people buying a lot of fashion," notes White. She points out that one of the biggest misconceptions people have about eBay is that the stuff for sale is used, explaining that "close to 60% of what is offered is brand new."
Sport Looks Like a Lady
For spring and beyond, White has been watching a confluence of two significant trends: ladylike & sports, as showcased so nicely in the recent Narciso Rodriguez Spring collection. "He did these incredibly feminine, beautiful dresses - a Balenciaga'ish dress cut very modern, really pristine and clean - but with what looks like a sports bra under it...That he was influenced and inspired by athletics, but a woman's sports bra - I think that's great." White points out that in the "clash" of designers designing, and modern women living their lives, the score appears to be tipping in favor of the chicks. "We have progressively been making ourselves more comfortable, making ourselves more muscular, and making our fashion and everything in life adapt to the life we're living...[A woman] needs to be comfortable in her clothes, she needs to be comfortable in her car, she needs to be able to get in and out of that car easily, she needs to be comfortable in her home, and fashion is no exception so it has to integrate. And clothes inspired by sports clothes tend to be the most comfortable."
Other Trends with the Constance White Seal of Approval:
SHORTS: "Yes, it's a 70s retro trend, but it also looks modern, I think, because of the sports connotation, and for the long run, that morphing of the ladylike into the practical." (Prada)
SOFTER DRESSING: "I like the direction towards softer, more casual dressing; softer in the sense of sweaters and knits. That's an important trend." (Peter Som)
DRESSY PANTS: "Personally, I love jeans, but I think it's great that we are seeing and embracing a more dressed up look, even if it's a tailored pant instead of a jean.(Missoni)
DIANA ROSS
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
LAURYN HILL
SARAH JESSICA PARKER- EDRIS (her NYC Meatpacking District hairstylist)
- MIRIAM MCKEEBA
MARILYN MONROE
DIANA VREELAND
(Note - all fashion show photos: Style.com)
July 5, 2005 in Design, Fashion, Fashiontribes Files, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Young Design Talent: Is their Future at Risk? Atom Cianfarani of NYC's Gaelyn and Cianfarani Reveals that Independent Designer Cooperatives Are Fighting Back Against Financial Barriers & Mass Chains - WEEKLY FASHIONTRIBES FASHION PODCAST
Yes, it's oh-so-chic to claim we all shop at little out-of-the-way shops and small boutiques. But how many of us actually do...especially more than once in a while? If we did, the fashion landscape wouldn't be dominated by fashion mega-chains and monoliths.
For a recent feature in Fashiontribes - Attack of the Style Clones: In a World Dominated by Chain Stores and Cookie Cutter Fashion, Designer Atom Cianfarani of Gaelyn and Cianfarani Worries About the Fate of Young Designers - I interviewed Atom Cianfarani of NYC design duo Gaelyn and Cianfarani, , www.gaelynandcianfarani.com (pronounced Chan-far-ANN-ee), latex couturiers whose clients include Bjork, Christina Aguilera, Shakira, Britney Spears, and Steven Meisel and Italian Vogue.
Yes, the prices and selection are attractive at the mega-chains, but the problem is the fate of young design talent. According to Cianfarani, conventional fashion industry wisdom says it takes millions of dollars in sales to even attract financial backing. "To say that until you make $35 million you can't get an investor or financial help sounds ridiculous, but that's what's happening to fashion. We're a somewhat successful company, but we don't even come close. What does that mean for us as young designers?"
Another problem is the lack of support for young design talent from the fashion industry itself. Fresh talent is often hired away by well-known designers before they ever get a chance to develop their voice. "Supporting young designers doens't mean hiring someone to be your assistant. It means keeping an eye out and seeing the Gaelyn and Cianfaranis, or someone like Zac Posen, who is amazing and is becoming more successful." Cianfarani is of the mind that if the Donna Karans and Marc Jacobs of the world consider themselves artists rather than just business people, they need to prove it by supporting young talent.
In the case of Gaelyn and Cianfarani, they teamed up with nine other small, independent designers and opened a designer cooperative Wear NYC, www.wearnyc.com. By splitting the costs and the workload, they are jointly able to afford showroom and retail space that would otherwise not be an option. "We collectively work together. Everyone has a list of jobs to do. These types of collectives are going to be more and more common. I definitely think it's the future of young designer fashion."
So while designers do their part by keeping their voice heard on the fashion landscape, we - as consumers - need to do our part by buying from smaller designers. (Besides, it means you'll never run into your fashion clone!) "If you want to see young designers develop, it's just really important to come on down and support them. We're here in the East Village, this is our art, and we need support."
June 14, 2005 in Design, Fashion, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Vivre.com CEO Eva Jeanbart Lorenzotti Dishes on Timeless Style & Luxury, the Trends of the Season, the Must-Haves & a Fall Sneak Peek - Fashion Fashion Fashion PODCAST
There’s online shopping, and then there’s online shopping. Vivre.com is the latter. Carrying all the must-have designer brands and items of the season – from the big names to fab new unknowns – Eva Jeanbart Lorenzotti & her crew of tireless style-hunters comb the globe for the best of everything. They work with different designers, craftsmen, and brands from around the world to put together an eclectic, unexpected mix. “We’re a website that focuses on different aspects of your life,” says Lorenzotti. “We’re very focused on the mix and the ideas. We focus on men’s, children and home and fashion, but we do it all around themes and ideas: Things when you want to go away for the summer, things that you want to give to your loved ones, things that you want to with.”
Part of the Vivre mantra is timelessness and helping their customer fill their closets with timeless luxuries they’ll adore today, and love even more tomorrow. But don’t be afraid to mix it up – high & low, expensive & cheap – advises Lorenzotti. “There is a certain sense of understatedness that we believe in, but we also have fun and whimsy because our lives are a mix of the high and lows, and that’s what we try to do at Vivre is mix it all up.”
Less about the products themselves, and more about the context, Vivre will present their customers with a direction – eg. Metallic bags – but then present them with a few great options to choose from. “Consumers today, they have so much abundance and access to things, but they’re confused. What they’re looking for is a little bit of direction, and within that direction, they feel comfortable enough to pick their own.” By presenting an edited point of view, Vivre showcases the best 10 to 15 bags of the season, rather than 500, leaving you with an interesting mix of fashion and home accessories to ogle and covet. “Many different things can be beautiful, many different things can be wonderful, but it’s about the why – the why will it fit into my life: how can I add this in? How can I change it? Why is this right? It’s about the why at the end.”
THIS YEAR'S MUST HAVE: JEWELS, JEWELS, JEWELS!
As a successful fashion retailer, Vivre knows what women want. Not only does Lorenzotti take feedback, she encourages it! “I get a lot of different feedback – whether they want bigger sizes or different types of things, or whether they want more of something. I love listening to it.” And what women want this year is jewelry, and lots of it. While shoes and bags are still hot, Lorenzotti report that jewelry is this year’s runaway hit, especially bold and unique “statement” pieces with a lot of personality. “People are looking for things that have very particular identities like metallics, woods, or different things of that nature.” She also notes that in addition to embellishment, people want fun pieces to add to their life which also put a bit of a twist into their wardrobes, such as pairing colorful embroidered Indian slippers with a nice pair of slacks. “ I think everybody’s looking to figure out how they can create their own sense of difference, and what feels comfortable.”
EVA JEANBART LORENZOTTI PICKS THE BIG TRENDS OF THE SEASON:
- Softness, Feminity & Layering – such as a simple tee paired with an amazing necklace
- Ethnic Influences – especially peasant skirts
Jewelry – Metallic necklaces
Coral & Turquoise
Texture: Woods, Metallics & Beading- Embellishment
Wooden cuffs 
Belts – especially worn over a blousy tunic 
Tunics 
Buttondown Shirts – “The woman’s shirt is a big thing now. They’re making them a lot more fitted, they’re making them a lot more comfortable, so it’s dressing you up, but it’s also simple enough to carry you through the day. And it’s looking good, and it’s giving you that certain sense of feminity.”
T-shirts with embellishment
Hats – hats are back again
Bathing Suit – “An amazingly well cut, classic bathing suit that you’ll want to wear today, next year, and the year after.”
Tote Bags – Lorenzotti reports being “surprised” by the huge popularity of the tote, and how much women want big bags. “We had a Michael Kors bag – they just went wild. It’s a great bag, it’s a tote bag made out straw – that was kind of a big surprise, because I thought it would do well, but I didn’t realize it would do that well.”
Fun home accessories
EVA JEANBART LORENZOTTI'S TOP VIVRE PICKS FOR RIGHT NOW:
Metallic bag – Vivre makes some adorable metallic pouches under their own label that Eva dubs the “the perfect summer accessory.” “They go with everything – jeans, t-shirts, fancy, non-fancy Whether you’re going out to dinner, going to the beach, or whatever, they’re all you need.”
Metallic tote – the tote, but with some sex appeal & go everywhere from beach to office 
Lucite ring – especially one by fab designer Patricia von Musulin “It’s a showstopper, it’s light, it’s comfortable, it’s dynamic, it goes with everything and it’s a must have.”
A Journal – Vivre’s own line come in great colors, and are great to just throw in your bag for whenever a deep thought crosses your mind.
T-shirt - The ones from Adam & Eve rock.
Sequined bikini – Roberto Cavalli’s would rock the beach paired with a djellaba, or apres la plage with a sheer top. 
Tunics – great in turquoise with gold paisley from Juliet Dunn or a python print from Adrienne Landau
Thongs with a kitten heel – Oscar de la Renta makes a great must-have pair
Hats - especially fun hats, like in raffia with gold, or even a hand-painted panama
Buttondown shirt - The Herion “H” shirt 
Fun home accessories – these twisted, very exuberant candlesticks from Mathias are a lot of fun as well as these ice cream “pints” that slip over a standard ice cream container and make it fun to serve at a dinner party. “ You pass these little buckets around and everybody can taste and share, and all of the sudden, it breaks the ice.”
A SNEAK PEEK AT THE VIVRE FALL LINEUP:
Blue, especially midnight blue – It’s the new black, so go bold, and go blue. Look for everything from vests to sweaters to peacoats to blue metallic pouches.
Beiges & prints – leopards and pony
White – back with a vengeance.
Feathers – look for great, feathered accessories like handbags and belts
Metallics – but much more “worked” and subdued
June 7, 2005 in Fashion, Fashiontribes Files, Home Decor, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Fashion: Tracy McWilliams Interview About Her Book "Dress to Express"- Full of Great Fashion & Style Tips Shows How to Overcome Your Closet Trauma & Reveal Your Inner Fashion Goddess & Beauty - WEEKLY FASHIONTRIBES "FASHION, FASHION, FASHION" PODCAST
WEEKLY FASHIONTRIBES "FASHION, FASHION, FASHION" PODCAST: Interview with Tracy McWilliams About Her Book "Dress to Express: Seven Secrets to Overcoming Closet Trauma and Revealing Your Inner Beauty" (New World Library) Which Demonstrates How to Overcome Your Closet Trauma & Reveal Your Inner ?Fashion Goddess & Beauty: MP3 File
Do you feel as stylish & beautiful on the outside as you do on the inside? If not, don't worry...you not only have a lot of company, but a great solution: Tracy McWilliams's new book Dress to Express: Seven Secrets to Overcoming Closet Trauma and Revealing Your Inner Beauty (New World Library) - http://www.tracymcwilliams.com/. Step by step, she will help you identify your true Fashion Image, exorcise your clothing emotions, fill your closet with the basics so you can build a wardrobe that really works - no more "I've got nothing to wear" ever again. Along with practical tips for dressing for your body type and "happy" shopping, McWilliams shows women how to connect their inner beauty to the public image they present.
According to McWilliams, there are six clothing personality types:
SOCIALITE - a woman who is about image, she is willing to spend a lot of time and money on clothing and perfect grooming. Always beautifully dressed even to run errands, her mottos are: "I must look my best at all times" and "How I look influences how I am treated." Designer faves: Chanel, Ungaro, Marc Jacobs. Celeb icon: Catherine Zeta-Jones
ACTRESS - a woman who wants to stand out, she is outgoing and creative, and loves-loves-loves to be the center of attention. While she loves fashion, it has to be tailored to fit her personality. Her mottos: "I love attention" and "I have to stand out." Fave desigers: Dolce & Gabbana, Stella McCartney, Christian Dior. Celeb icon: Victoria Beckham
CLASSIC - all about chic simplicity & being appropriately dressed to go anywhere and do anything. Buys clothing to last the test of time, not because it's trendy. Mottos: "I look classy" and "I am simple elegance." Enjoys Calvin Klein, Armani, Prada. Icon: Diane Sawyer 
ARTIST - more of a Bohemian type that is into creative comfort, flowing fabrics and art-to-wear threads. Mottos: "I love comfortable fabrics" and "I love clothing that looks like art." Designer faves: Eskandar, Elie Saab, Betsey Johnson. Celeb Icon: Shirley MacLaine
SPORTY - a sporty, casual kinda gal, and often quite preppy. Tends to dress in an easygoing, down-to-earth fashion and loves to be able to get up and get out without excessive amounts of primping and time spent figuring out what to wear. Motto: "I love to be comfortable." Designers: Ralph Lauren, Gap, J.Crew. Icon: Venus Williams
REBEL - that woman who can pair the most incongruous items and still look great. All about resisting the establishment, she wears pretty much whatever she pleases, and while nothing matches perfectly (she prefers it that way); she puts her own fashion style together. Mottos: "I will wear whatever I want" and "I don't care what you think." Fave designers: any & all as long as she makes the style her own. Celeb Icon: Gwen Stefani
While some people fall into multiple categories, one will still be the most prominent.
After taking the quiz, it's time to figure out what you "want to create in your life, and if that's what you really want, to really take some time and define it." McWilliams points out that many of us float through life without ever defining a fashion comfort level. We simply dress the way we observed growing up, and then, one fine day suddenly realize that we are never comfortable with our clothing choices and wish a fashion fairy-godmother would simply appear and tell us what to wear.
Once you spend the time defining your Clothing Personality - c'mon, you can spare a couple of hours, you're worth it! - it's time to confront your inner closet demons: Clothing Emotions. These are the four main inner drives that lead people to have closet trauma:
- OVERACHIEVER - This is a woman who wants to look perfect, regardless of cost and anything else in her life. "Even if she just bought a great Calvin Klein suit or an awesome Versace dress, she'll probably only wear it once, and never wear it again. She is in this mode of having to look perfect all the time." The underlying emotion is: "I need to be perfect & look that way."
- ACCUMULATOR - Despite having 10 closets stuffed full of clothes, she'll impulse shop for that certain something, and still only wear 20% of the stuff she owns - wearing the same things repeatedly. The emotion: "I do not know who I am" or "I am not feeling whole."
- MODERATE - Tends to be where most people fall into. Will furiously impulse shop if an event comes up where she has to look right. The emotion: "I need to fit in" or "I don't want to make other people feel uncomfortable."
- DEPRIVER - Reflects the emotional pattern of someone who has either minimal interest in clothing or image, or has deprived herself of the right to look & feel good. The emotion: "I do not feel deserving" or "I feel guilty."
Once you've identified your closet demons, it's easy to slay them. Part of what will help is to dress for your body type. Don't fight it - compliment it by focusing on the magic word: proportion. "It's all about what works for your shape," notes McWilliams. "Even out your proportions."
Narrow shoulders & wide hips? Wear things that accentuate your shoulders & make them look wider - heavier fabrics & patterns on top are good options - and darker clothes in thinner fabrics on the bottom. V-necks are a great way to accentuate your upper body.
Big shoulders & small hips? Go for form-fitting tops and thin fabrics - don't add any width to your upper body at all. For the bottom, choose heavier fabrics and patterns.
Hourglass shape: Accentuate the waist.
Apple shape: Draw attention away from the stomach area. "The last thing you want to do is highlight your stomach, so stay away from belts, and try jackets that are fitted, but don't end right at the tummy but a little further down."
A big secret? Think about your "vertical" frame. According to McWilliams, "nobody ever talks about this, and it's really important." Compare your upper and lower body - which is longer?
- If you're short-waisted, your height is in your legs. To balance out your vertical proportions, choose tops that are longer and skim over the waist and the hips to bring your upper body into proportion with your lower body. Wearing a jacket that is too short or excessivly cropped will throw off your proportions & make you feel uncomfortable in your clothes.
- If you're long-waisted, your height is in your upper body, and your legs are relatively shorter. Cropped tops work well to create harmonious proportions.
Another key element to consider: dressing from the "top down." You want people to remember you and your face, so "it's important to think about what's going on to highlight your face and upper body, because this is where you want people looking." A bonus of thinking this way is that it not only really helps you to develop your own style, but you can go all out on fun tops and jewelry - which help you stand out as a whole package. To dress from the top down, here are Tracy's Tips:
- FIGURE OUT WHAT YOU WANT TO HIGHLIGHT. Whether you are big or small busted, figure out what areas you want to stand out. "It's really focusing on knowing your tops, your body, and what you want to do to make it stand out."
ACCESSORIES, ACCESSORIES, ACCESSORIES. From earrings to necklaces to scarves to pins to hairclips, these are all rockin' ways to dress from the top down. If your face is round, opt for longer, more linear earrings to make your face look thinner. Long or angular faces should choose rounder earrings.
V-NECKS FOR EVERYONE! No matter what your body type, they elongate, and direct the eye to take in the body as a whole. "It makes you appear thinner than you are."
And now for the fun part: shopping! Before you head out, take heed of Tracy's pet peeve: sizes. Tattoo this onto your forehead: there is no size standard, so a 6 in one designer can be a 10 in another. "There is no universal size, so the key is to buy things that fit you. It's hard psychologically, but if you love it and it doesn't fit you, go up a size...and then tear the tag out as soon as you get home."
The wardrobe that works for any and all occasions contains basics. Until you have the basics in place, limit your impulse shopping to just what you need. And later, when you've filled in the holes, Tracy advises always asking yourself about a potential impulse purchase: Can I wear this with anything else in my closet? "Think about your closet and what you can wear with it. If the answer is "yes" then by all means - impulse shop!" Only buy what you absolutely love, and don't forget to bring a bra with you when you shop. If you're small busted and tend to wear bras with extra padding, and you try something on in the store - sans bra - that you don't fill out 100%, you might decide not to buy it. But if you're wearing the right bra, chances are it will look fab. And fix your straps once you put the bra on! "We need to learn to fix our bra straps," admonishes Tracy. "We can all be pert." Amen.
The foundation wardrobe should contain:
SUITS - 2 pantsuits & a formal evening suit. Make sure the pieces can be worn separately. 
SWEATERS - a black turtleneck, a cardigan, a pullover.
TOPS - a buttondown, 2 camisoles, 3 fun/evening tops, 2 tees (short or longsleeve), 2 "work" tops (wrap or silk), 2 tanks.
JACKETS - a denim jacket, a designer blazer (eg. a little Chanel jacket that looks good with jeans or for evening.)
PANTS - black pants. Can you ever have enough of these, really?
JEANS - for many of us, these are a wardrobe staple (the new head of Chanel USA wore her Seven jeans with a little Chanel jacket and some heels to the interview...and snagged the job!) Have at least 2 pairs, or go for it & have a wardrobe - longer for wearing with higher heels, shorter to pair with flats, and cropped for showing off the new Grecian-style lace-up flats & fab summer pedicures.
DRESSES - the bare minimum is a little black dress. This is an ironclad rule. With all the fun color options out there this season, opt for a colorful summer dress you can throw on & look fab in seconds.
SHOES - a pair of pumps or any close-toed option such as a kitten-heel slingback that you can use to dress up your jeans or pants; a pair of casual every-day kicks, an "everything" casual shoe (like a flip flop or Uggs), a pair of casual boots & a pair of dressy boots, and a pair of workout shoes.
OUTERWEAR - An overcoat, a parka, and a raincoat. This season is great for chic trenches, so keep your body type in mind & take advantage of the windfall.
HANDBAGS - one for everyday, one casual tote for running errands or going to the market (L.L. Bean makes great ones LLBean.com), a briefcase or work tote, and an evening bag. This is the bare minimum - feel free to expand on your collection.
LINGERIE - 3 good bras are the minimum: a smooth one to wear under t-shirts, a racerback and an "everyday" bra. As for panties, thongs, and frou-frou sleepwear, the sky's the limit.
ACCESSORIES - wraps, scarves, jewelry, hats, belts, hair accessories. Make sure you know what you own, and that you wear everything. A great tip from Tracy: Hang up a corkboard in your room: you can stick brooches right into it, and hang necklaces and earrings from pushpins.
And there you have it, the secrets to expressing your inner diva though fashion fabulousness:
- Define your Image.
- Choose your Clothing Personality.
- Claim your confidence & be lifted up. "A woman can be totally beautiful, but if she's sullen, forget it. Be confident."
- Visualize yourself beautiful. When you're trying things on, picture yourself looking gorgeous with your hair and makeup done.
- Defy the Clothing Myths- Know that you don't have to be "thin" to look good; you don't have to be a "creative genius" to dress well; you are pretty enough to look fashionable; if you look too good, it won't make other women jealous & hate you; you don't have to spend a ton of money to look awesome.
- Tame your clothing emotions.
- Connect your Inner and Outer beauty and control your Communication Style - Your inner dialogue is more crucial than you think. Be cognizant of what you're telling yourself when you're getting dressed - stay present & aware of what you are thinking so you can nix that stupid voice telling you you're too fat/ugly/nothing fits right, etc. "Don't focus too much on others, express yourself, and you will look great," advises Tracy.
May 31, 2005 in Beauty, Fashion, Pop Culture, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Jordan Betten's Leather Wedding Dress; Kim Sunshine of The Knot; Marion Fasel Talks Trends in Wedding Jewelry; Mara Urshel of Kleinfeld on the Perfect Dress; Custom Kicks from Tupli Shoes - WEEKLY FASHIONTRIBES "FASHION, FASHION, FASHION" PODCAST
Yes, all brides are beautiful, but for bridal beauty that "goes to 11", bring out the big guns. In the Afro Love magazine, our intrepid writer Stevie Wilson went undercover to the Emmy, Golden Globe and Oscar suites in Los Angeles to steal the best tips and secrets from the gurus of glam that primp the celebs: Red Carpet Glam D.I.Y.: The Stars That Walk the Red Carpet Aren't Born Perfect. They have Help & You Too Can Use the Same Products to Get a Stellar Look! (Also, meet our newest international correspondant Zayna who's got the 411 on the fashion scene in Jordan.)
You mix vintage and designer in your normal life, so why stop on your wedding day? According to Kim Sunshine, Senior Fashion Editor of The Knot, some of the most inspired wedding day looks include vintage brooches, pearls, and beaded bags. Off-white & champagne are great color options, as are the newly popular trumpet or mermaid style dresses. In the Downtown Doll magazine: The Vintage Bride: Spice up your Wedding Garb by Pairing Something Cool, Vintage and Sparkly with Your Dress.
More is more - Miss Mae West was a fashion sage ahead of her time. In Boldly Bejeweled Bride: Diamonds, Sapphires or even a Pink Tourmaline - As Long as It's Good Quality, It's Perfect for a Wedding Ring (in the Fancy Flirt magazine), we hear from Marion Fasel, co-author of With this Ring: The Ultimate Guide to Wedding Jewelry that the latest trend in wedding day jewelry is to pile it on. Also, white ain't always right - consider fancy colored diamonds - like Victoria Beckham's GBP 1 million rock - or even sapphires.
Sometimes the right gown comes along before Mr. Right. Mara Urshel's seen it before. The owner of the fabulous Kleinfeld bridal emporium in Brooklyn recommends choosing a location & date before falling in love with a dress - that way you don't show up at your own nuptials sporting a formal-50-layers-of-tulle number to a relaxed, barefoot affair at the beach. The Groom-Optional Bridal Gown: With Advice from Wedding Dress Guru Mara Urshel of Kleinfeld, You Can Have the Dress of Your Dreams - Even if you don't Have Your Prince Charming Yet. In the Global Chic magazine.
Can't stomach the thought of a traditional wedding dress. Then try something more rock-goddess worthy in leather - maybe a three-piece cream suede suit, perhaps? Get the scoop in the Rock Punk magazine: And the Bride Wore Leather...Saying "I Do" Doesn't Autmatically Have to Mean Drowning in Yards of Tulle & Satin says Leather Couturier Jordan Betten of NYC's Lost Art.
When off-the-shelf shoes simply won't cut it, go for custom kicks. Get your secret style weapons made at Madison Avenue's Tupli Shoes (www.tupli.com). At this exclusive by-appointment-only salon, only your imagination and budget limit what will end up on your feet. Suit Your Sole: At Tupli shoes, It's Your Way and the High Way (High Heels that is!) In the Technoid Subculture magazine.
May 24, 2005 in Fashion, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Wedding Jewelry Trends: Fancy Colored Stones such as Pink Diamonds & Just Like the Fashion Trends, It's About More-More-More Bling! - WEEKLY FASHIONTRIBES FASHION PODCAST
Wedding season is upon us, like it or not. A flurry of monkey suits, ill-fitting bridesmaid outfits, badly-behaved wedding guests, annoying extended family...need I say more?
Why yes...about jewelry, though. In the June issue of Fashiontribes, in the Fancy Flirt magazine, we discuss The Boldly Bejeweled Bride. The trend in wedding jewelry is more - more, more, more! "People are just adding more and more jewelry to their wedding day looks," says Marion Fasel, co-author of With this Ring: The Ultimate Guide to Wedding Jewelry.
Why? Probably for a number of reasons:
- Celebrities: Glitterati like Gwen Stefani sported a giant pink tourmaline and green periodot heart pendant when she married Gavin Rossdale.
- Something old, something new, somthing....BLUE! Blue sapphires that is. "Jewelry is a wonderful way to fulfill the 'something blue' category of the bride's wedding day formula for good luck," says Fasel's co-author Penny Proddow.
- Women's Day: Women are playing a more active role in choosing their ring, and many a new bride wants something more unique.
- More styles: No longer is wedding jewelry limited to a princess cut diamond engagement ring & wedding band combo. There is so much more on the market, that people are veering away from traditional choices.
- Pink is the new Pink: J.Lo got a multi-carat pink diamond when she was engaged to Ben Affleck. Nicole Richie has a pink diamond, and David Beckham presented the lovely Victoria with a big pink hunk 'o ice worth GBP 1 million.
- Snob Appeal: Colored diamonds are more rare, and therefore more expensive than colorless diamonds. No wonder the celeb set loves 'em.
With non-traditional wedding jewelry on the rise, the new fave Fashiontribes wedding ring is this multi-hued marvel, the Pink Diamond Dip Wedding Ring from PinkDiamonds.co.uk. A confetti of 31 fancy colored diamonds - pink, yellow, green blue, white, and purple - it is a cool update on a classic, yet timeless enough the wearer won't be bored with it too soon.
May 17, 2005 in Design, Fashion, Jewelry, PODCAST, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Your Shoes Let You See Into Your Sole - Meghan "Miss Meghan" Cleary's New Book "The Perfect Fit: What Your Shoes Say About You" Explains Personality Types Through Shoe Choices - WEEKLY FASHIONTRIBES FASHION PODCAST
Forget about clothes....SHOES make the man, and of course, the chick!
But did you know your shoes say volumes about you, your style, and even your personality? Just ask Meghan Cleary, aka Miss Meghan (http://www.missmeghan.com/) - shoe guru to WE's fashion show & host on Oxygen Network of How to Shop Vintage. She's also a fellow fashionista-blogger with a rockin' blog: http://missmeghan.blogspot.com/. In her new book The Perfect Fit: What Your Shoes Say About You, just out from Chronicle Books (http://www.chroniclebooks.com/), she has your own personal horoscope based on your kicks! After all, what says more about your personality than your choice of stilettos and sneakers, mary janes and mules?
Quick questionaires help you get in step (sorry, couldn't help it!) with your true self, while the detailed shoe profiles answer every woman's burning questions: Which career will sweep me off my feet? How do I achieve my perfect look? Who is my arch supporter? And most of all...Is there any problem that can't be solved with a new pair of shoes?
According to Miss M, it's the balance of form and function that make shoes such an interesting accessory. "You're forced to make a choice everyday, a choice of things that connect you to the ground. Because of their blend of form and function, they're very telling about a woman's state of mind." But there's more to shoes than just a flighty, fashion-y thing. "I think a lot of people, men especially, think that it's just a flighty, ha-ha thing. They're very like, 'oh women and their shoes!' I think it's sort of essential to a woman's personality, to feel really good in what they're wearing - especially what they have on their feet. It's more profound, actually."
In Perfect Fit, she's identified three basic groups:
Towering Heights: Stilettos, straps & heels, heels, heels. This group likes being the center of attention & is comfortable being looked at - they tend to enjoy getting dressed up every day. The divine click of heels on the pavement is music to their ears.
On-the-Go: These girls dig designer sneaks, pointy skimmers, ballet flats, etc. Media maven-types & mover/shakers, they're always running around finding the coolest, new thing & generally getting things done. In a word, they are active.
Down-to-Earth: Flip flop fashionistas & Birkenstock wearers (the Heidi Klum ones of course). Mellow and grounded, these barefoot princesses are in step with reality. They enjoy the ground beneath their feet, & believe in inner beauty.
Ask yourself: What is my absolute favorite pair of shoes...and why? Whichever pair makes you feel the most comfy, confident & sexy - regardless of how much you wear that pair - that's your natural state of "shoe" & what Miss M calls your "Shoe Sun Sign". Your other tendencies, where you want to go, that's your "Shoe Rising Sign." So even though you might be a Towering Heights chick with a High Heel Sandal shoe sun sign, your opposite shoe sign would be a Clunky, Chunky-Heel Loafer...but before you go running for the shelter of your Manolos, Miss M has this pearl of wisdom: "opposites are great tool for sole discovery, as they identify a path that deserves a little exploration and inner reflection."
In addition to crucial advice on shoes, her book also reveals what your kicks say about your personal traits and behaviors...exposing a woman's true sole (yikes...a pun too far!). With insightful quzzies, style guidelines, amusing shoe trivia and even career recommendations, this footwear bible will certainly help you get in step with your true self. "For women, I really think it's any woman who wants to know what their shoes say about them, in the moment that they're wearing that shoe," explains Cleary. "For men, it's a bit of a handbook: know where your lady is at before you approach her about anything...like breaking the news about the golfing trip you're going on, do it when she's in her flats, rather than her stilettos."
May 10, 2005 in Fashion, PODCAST, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Vision Council of America (VCA) - Susan Welsh & Rene Soltis - on the Hot Eyewear & Sunglasses Fashion, Styles & Trends - WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST
For an upcoming issue of Fashiontribes magazine, I interviewed Susan Welsh & Rene Soltis of the Vision Council of America (VCA) - the trade organization for the eyewear & sunglass industry. Welsh & Soltis compile the industry trend reports & know every bigwig in the business.
These are the major trends in eyewear:
White Frames: "There's a kind of a throwback to a back-in-the-Jackie-O days of big, chunky, white sunglasses," reports Welsh. "A status symbol." 
Aviators: Not the old-school pilot style, but more of a variation. "It's not like you could throw on a pair of aviators you had ten years ago. They would look dated," says Soltis, who advises opting for the new rimless (no frame) styles, or ones with color.
Gold: Taking its lead from jewelry, eyewear frames are no longer limited to silver - they have gone gold."The general fashion environment in gold jewelry is what we're now seein in eyewear," confirms Welsh.
Glamorous, oversized frames: From rhinestones to crystals to be-jeweling, much of the eyewear of the moment mirrors rockstar glam. Says Welsh, "We're seeing bigger jewelry now, and bigger eyewear."
Textures: Just like fashion and accessories - from slubby silks to natural materials - eyewear has incorporated the texture trend. Look for touches like a textured temple.
Eyeglass Wardrobes: With value & quality available at almost any pricepoint, eyewear & sunglasses are more affordable than ever. People are choosing different frames for different needs - it's no longer about one pair for every occasion. "Like in accessories, the right purse, shoes & jewelry, people are creating wardrobes of eyewear and sunwear," says Soltis. "One pair of glasses, whether it's for fashion or for function, is not going to meet all your needs. It's not just a medical device, it's part of your image."
Soltis and Welsh pointed out that a good place to spot eyewear trends is these three areas:
- The manufacturers: Providing eyewear for the stylists and celebs, they know what's out there. Many are directly connected with design houses - like Dior and Versace - so they are directly keyed into the what's coming down the runway. "The designer labels follow the design of the fashion world, and they're very connected to what's going on in the fashion world, which follows through to eyewear," says Welsh.
- The Celeb factor: Stars like Usher are almost never photographed without their shades, as are Jessica Simpson & the Olsen Twins. "Any celebrity worth their weight is always going to be photographed, and set trends," says Soltis.
- Fashion Magazines: Lately, most of the influential magazine editorials have been focusing heavily on accessories. When they show trends - such as color like turquoise - they will show turquoise clothing, jewelry, shoes, and now, eyewear. "Right now," notes Welsh, "it's not just a functional thing, it's part of the whole look."
As eyewear industry insiders, I got VCA's Soltis & Welsh to pick the best trends & looks for each of Fashiontribes.com's six fashion tribes.
Afro-Love: For glamourous bohemians, it's all about textures & prints, especially ones that are more understated, such as the underside of the temples. "It's almost like an undergarment," comments Soltis. "You know they're there, and it makes you feel good, important."
Downtown Doll: Funky, downtown hipsters deserve artsy frames, especially fun, "wearable art" from companies like these Groovin' CPO frames from Cinzia. Also, think layers of color, and combinations like turquoise & black.
Fancy Flirt: For a party tribe, only party-worthy eyewear will do. Go for rhinestones, large 'n loud logos, and designer brands.
Global Chic: As runway-conscious fashionistas, sleek lines, understated style and high quality materials are key. According to Soltis, the feeling is "almost demure."
Rock Punk: Fashion badasses should rock an aviator, or other hardware-heavy models.
Technoid Subculture: As noctural peacocks who emerge only for fabulous events, the watchword is: attention-grabbing" like these "Pop Art" from Mercura. "Definitely off the beaten track," says Soltis. "The frames that some boutiques will have in their frame displays to draw attention, but 90% of their customers would never buy them." No so, this group of fashion pioneers.
At the end of our interview, I asked them for some helpful hints on how to choose the right frame shape. They offer this gem of advice: Always contrast your frame shape and your face shape. In other words, if you have a round face, choose angular frames to "chisel" in features. If you are angular, then go for round curves that soften. "There really is a science behind it - it's all about lines, curves, and angles."
On their http://www.eyecessorize.com/s_eyes/ site, they have a really helpful page which identifies the seven basic face shapes, and tips on the type of frames that flatter most.
OVAL - high cheekbones & narrow chin; considered balanced
Goal: Don't "unbalance" the face. Also, ovals tend to have small features so stay away from overly large or small frames.
OBLONG - Longer than it is wide, the oblong face tends to have a long nose & long straight cheek.
Goal: Make face appear shorter & wider. Tip: "Break" up the length of the face with frames that add width to this angular face shape.
TRIANGLE - Narrow forehead that widens at cheek & chin.
Goal: Add width to forehead, while softening & narrowing the jaw, chin & cheeks. Tip: Go for frames that visually add width to the forehead with extensions at the temple - cateye is a great pick for this face shape - or frames with color & detailing on top half.
HEART - Wide forehead & high cheekbones; face narrows to chin.
Goal: Minimize width at top of the face. Tip: Almost any pair of glasses will add width where you don't need it, so try rimless frames, aviators, butterfly shapes, or frames that add width below the eyeline.
DIAMOND - Most rare face shape with a narrow forehead, chin & eyeline with high, dramatic cheekbones.
Goal: Widen the forehead & jaw. Tip: Highlight eyes & cheekbones with cateye shapes, ovals & rimless frames. Square frames work well for diamonds, as well as ones with a straight top & curved bottom.
SQUARE - Strong jawline with wide chin, broad forehead & cheekbones.
Goal: Make face look longer. Tip: Avoid frames that mirror face shape, like ones that are flat on the bottom. Choose uplift to draw attention away from the jawline, such as frames that are narrow, more horizontal than vertical, have weight on top, and are wider than the widest part of the face.
ROUND - full with lots of curves; width & length is same proportions
Goal: make face seem longer/thinner; Tip: opt for slightly angular frames; a clear bridge with colored temples; avoid excessively rounded or square styles
May 2, 2005 in Design, Fashion, PODCAST, WEEKLY FASHION PODCAST | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack