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FASHIONTRIBES 5 MIN. PODCAST: Recent Paris Trade Shows Portend a Flashy, Creative Fall. FASHIONTRIBES FASHION BLOG & PODCAST
left to right: a look from Brazil's Osklen; Sweden's Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair (photos: WWD)
"The Paris shows offer a creative edge you don't see elsewhere," Janet Wong, accessories and ready-to-wear buyer for New York's Atrium, recently told WWD about the shows that run during Paris Fashionweek; the multi-show lineup included Vendôme Luxury Trade Show, Paris Sur Mode, Atmosphère d'Hiver, Tranoi and Rendez-Vous. "The Paris trade shows are the place where young creative brands are the most efficient," agrees Cedric Charbit, general merchandise manager of women's fashion at Printemps.
Popular labels like Les Prairies de Paris, April May, Iro and Eurythmic, Milly, Issa and Italy's Golden Goose made a strong showing that mirrored the trends on the runways: clean silhouettes, dresses, knits, a ladylike vibe, and tailoring. "It was a very strong jacket season, whether it's fitted, sharper shoulders or soft details, there are lots of desirable clothes to choose from," notes Ken Downing, Neiman Marcus senior vice president and fashion director. Many retailers mirror this sentiment, and report that their budgets have grown since last season. "Even though black is important, the return to color is really reassuring to us because our customer loves color. We're feeling dressed up and what we call the 'new polish' is very important, from the opaque legs to the return of pumps and clutches."
SOME PARIS TRADESHOW HIGHLIGHTS:
TRANOI Fancy streetwear & feathered frocks by Osklen, a line from Brazil known for combining a street vibe with elements of nature, and Sweden’s Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, featuring snappy silhouettes and fabric folded like origami in muted hues. "We are most known for our combination of draping with tailored pieces," says Anna Wallén, the brand's international sales manager.
RENDEZ-VOUS Despite showing in the 10th arrondissement, the show lured them in with a smorgasboard of new talent. "It's a real opportunity for young designers," agrees Johanna Dauphin who launched her new denim-centric J Dauphin collection at Rendez-Vous.
ATMOSPHERE D’HIVER With a multi-culti mix of more than 5,000 buyers attending – from the Italy, Japan, Finland, Denmark and Ireland, Russia, Romania, and the US (albeit less because of the weak dollar) – exhibitors reported buyers paying less attention to ruffles, in favor of garments with a tailored feel and luxe fabrics like silk satin in muted colors.
PARIS SURE MODE La Petite Robe Noire by Didier Ludot proved a hit with buyers, whose numbers were up more than 30 percent.
VENDOME LUXURY Spread across three venues - the Park Hyatt, the Ritz & the Meurice – mid-pricepoint lines didn’t fare nearly as well as brands at either end of the luxury & mass-price spectrum. "The American market is slowest, even though that is where we are the most developed," explains Stephanie Perez, international sales manager for Luella, mirroring other sellers experience that spending by Americans was less than spectacular, order from Paris were on the rise, new buyers such as Japan’s Isetan department store were in attendance, and Middle Easterners, Asians (Hong Kong & Korea) and Russians are the "power spend of the moment" says Katie Manderson of Jasmine di Milo (Jasmine Al-Fayed’s line).
- Lesley Scott
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