Despite the elegant Greenwich Village setting with its spendy view of Washington Square Park plus a souk's worth of luxe fabrics - silk linens, supple leathers, summer "fur" (knotted tassels...of silk) - the Spring 2015 collection by Adam Lippes had a delicious, non-elegant edge.
Perhaps it was the punk-approved palette of black, dirty navy and rocker-grrrl red. Maybe it was the off-kilter proportion of the roomy, pant/culotte paired with a cool ankle-strap heel. But the overall feel brought to mind for me what a diehard punk rocker would wear now that she had somehow acquired a champagne budget but still harbored unrepentant cheap-beer tastes. Okay, so Lippes's ritzy decor might have sparked his creativity, in particular his collection of vintage Moroccan rugs, but the Sharpie-drawn tapestry print, billowy toss-it-on-and-go caftan, and Berber-pantsuits whispered of a delicious, deliberately-tasteful secret life well away from that annoying McTrend of blending in to be cool, dubbed normcore.
(normcore fashion illustration - source)
This Lippes collection contains just enough of the spendy silks and sartorial stuff to pass un-normcored through the mainstream - sportswear staples, crisp shirts, knits loomed by hand - but styled so as to allow a girl to brandish a silk-covered sartorial middle finger...or, should you hail from the UK, the infamous knuckle-forward, first-two-finger "V" salute.
Taking on the world with a rebel yell is one of the superpowers of the Apocalytical fashion tribe. For more of my posts & podcasts about this tribe, CLICK HERE. To learn more about each of fashion's four mega-tribes that I track, START HERE.
(normcore shoe hideousness - source)
- Lesley Scott