With the recent changing of the creative guard at Gucci, Alessandro Michele is taking the label in a less overt-glam direction than either Frida Giannini or Tom Ford before her. Rather than sex-in-your-face, Gucci Fall 2015 feels more like a recollection of amore. "I love the idea that a dress has a memory," explains Michele, quoting the Italian philosopher Giorgio Agamben:
Those who are truly contemporary are those who neither perfectly coincide with their time nor adapt to its demands…Contemporariness, then, is that relationship with time that adheres to it through a disconnection.
Similarly, viewing objects from other eras through the lens of how we can use them today - how they can "serve" us - was deemed by Martin Heidegger to represent the essence of modernity. This orientation served to reveal the true "thingness" of things, which the philosopher called enframing.
Which is quite evident at Gucci, starting with this eccentric, waifish slipdress so reminiscent of Marc Jacobs from his Perry Ellis days (below). But in lieu of early 90s grunge combat boots, the dress is is enframed by "slippers" that are hugely hairy, monstrously ugly...and totally intriguing.
They remind me of what cavemen did with wooly mammoths they hunted, killed, ate & then skinned. To make shoes, of course.
- Lesley Scott