Looks from left: Armani Prive, Schiaparelli, Atelier Versace, Giambattista Valli, Alexandre Vauthier
For Fall 2014, the Giambattista Valli girl is pretty much the same as she is every season: an eccentric with a large stash o' cash. If she's "excessively chic" as Vauthier characterizes his collection, the she's probably got him on speed-dial as well. As always, glam was on the menu at Atelier Versace, but with a 50s feel soaked in J. Lo sex appeal - an interesting twist.
For his second Schiaparelli couture collection, Marco Zanini concluded, apparently, that last season's decision to avoid Elsa's eccentric style signatures - things like monkey fur, surrealism, shocking pink - was a mistake. So he lurched in, full throttle, noting that "as a designer you really need to confront the dragon and go there." At least that's his story and he's sticking to it. The question is: will his corporate overlord, Diego Della Valli, stick by him?
And the front row at Armani Prive (right) probably summed up the improbable times in which today's fashion designers must not only navigate, but flourish: Juliette Binoche, Jared Leto, Kate Hudson, Chloë Grace Moretz, Pink...and Sophia Loren.
So what to make of this crayola-color trend lighting and brighting things up on the Haute Couture runways? Perhaps it's a return to the age of elegance, just with cartoon coloring - or perhaps it's the other way round: an attempt to grown-up some of the anime sensibilities that currently rule the culture. Either way, this crayon'y trend at the Fall 2014 couture shows proved an interesting mash-up of other long-legged trends, including the...
...OLD: nostaligia for the elegance of the past;
...NEW: high tech and industrial fabrics.
- Lesley Scott
(left: Schiaparelli F'14)