For whatever reason, Marc Jacobs was born a Zeitgeist Whisperer. His clothing designs kind of matter not, to me, least. (I'd laugh if it turned out he felt the same about my writing.) But in Fashionland, he's unassailable - even some of the more level-headed fash writers and critics have been unable to resist being assimilated by the MJacobsBorg.
However, back to the Zeitgeist. Wanna quick & accurate read on what's resonating with the masses? Look no further than the MJ show itself, particularly the set, the way the clothing is styled, the hair & makeup.
For Fall 2014:
The Set (above): Designed as always by Stefan Beckman. Signature quote: "Pop art is always a big influence-Ruscha, Baldesarri, simply the pop sensibility. But all types of art influence me like Alberto Burri and his burned tar canvases." (image)
The Vibe A pop art installation on the Star Trek holodeck, complete with "pillowy Magritte clouds."
The Coiffure Under the guidance of hair maestro Guido Palau, Victoria Hunter at Whittemore House Salon created five hair shades just this side of "old lady"- including mink brown, dirty blonde and a silvery-white with a tinge of purple. "It's like an illustration come to life," explains Palau. "It's so perfect that it looks futuristic; there's no era reference when you look at the girls."
The Maquillage François Nars went full-on retro, bleaching and dying the eyebrows. "You used to see that on Vogue covers in the sixties; hairdressers would match the brows to the hair color." Oddly, the vibe also felt quite cyborg, too, for some reason.
The Nails From mustard to mushroom, the nails were a visual extension of the extreme-neutral color palette, which Palau proudly deemed "a bit eerie and unsettling." (image)
The Clothes According to Marc Jacobs: "It's all a pose."
...just ask homeboy here in the MJ front row sporting leather walking shorts - pleated! - and rubber boots. In New York. In the middle of February. During a Polar Vortex.
Here is the podcast I recorded about this. Enjoy!
Music: Kevin MacLeod, Incompetech.com
- Lesley Scott