"When we started to do punk, I think it was the first time people saw clothes like ours and they could buy them from our little shop," reminsces the designer credited with bringing the punk aesthetic into the fashion mainstream. "No one was wearing anything like it. When we started to do punk, we put all of these things together to create the look of an urban guerilla - a rebel. It was a creation that evolved through our shop." Currently called Worlds End, it was also SEX, Let it Rock, Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die & Seditionaries - during which time it highlighted the straps and zips of then-obscure sexual fetishism, creating some delicious social shockwaves.
And the fun is back with "Chaos", a special limited edition capsule collection plundered straight from the archive, starting with the early 70s & through to the present. HIghlights include prints like "Cowboy" and "Tits", the DIY tee - two rectangles of fabric sewn together roughly & then emblazoned with "YOURSELF" - and the Climate Revolution tee from S/S'13. To add some shock & awe to your lapel, why not start by pinning on a penis; just tell any dubious bystanders its the Pagan symbol of fertility (be sure keep a straight face when doing so).
The much-loved Seditionaries boots from the late 70s are back in green canvas with tan leather trim, just the way the Sex Pistols wore 'em in London. (image) Bondage dresses are of course available, as well as garments printed to look like they've had red wine spilled on them and were stained with grass - which reminded me of William S. Burroughs dandies in The Wild Boys who sported spendy bespoke suits "that appear to be stained with urine and vomit which on closer inspection turn out to be intricate embroideries of fine gold thread."
Arm candy includes the Africa bags, created in collaboration with the International Trade Centre - an initiative by the World Trade Organization & the United Nations - to create stability in impoverished communities and replace charity handouts with opportunities to work.
- Lesley Scott