Coco "Visits" China in the Chanel Paris-Shanghai Collection
For a number of years now, Chanel has been actively helping to preserve the endangered skills of the Maisons d'Art, including renowned embroiderer Lesage, shoemaker Massaro, Desrues (metalwork), Michel (millinery), Lemarie (feather-maker), Goossens (goldsmith), and Guillet (flowers).
Since 2002, Karl Lagerfeld has paid homage to these artisans and their role in the history of the brand by dedicating an annual collection to them - most recently, the 8th such collection: PARIS-SHANGHAI 2010. Presented on December 3, it was staged on a specially-prepared 85 meter long barge in Shanghai's Huangpu river accessed via a peninsula bridge adorned with pansies in shades of white, yellow and orange; the city's skyscrapers provided the dramatic backdrop.
As a prelude to the show, Paris Shanghai, A Fantasy was screened on 5 giant 4m x 4m screens. Directed by Lagerfeld, it tells the story of Coco Chanel's imagined voyage to China.
The famed Terracotta Army makes an appearance, as does the urban romanticism of Chinese cinema, and the glittering chic of the 1930s & opulence of the imperial court - channeled into slim, pagoda-shaped sleeves, structured waists, layers of ruffles, high collared suits, embroidered coats, and tunics inspired by the traditional Mandarin Qipao gown - and all in hues of black, red, khaki, and midnight blue.
Accessories were equally lush, with shoulder-grazing earrings; a bounty of necklaces, brooches and cuffs crafted from a mix of pearls, coins and stone; delicate ballet flats with cork soles; thigh-high embroidered leather boots; and, of course, bags by the score in a multitude of colors and fabrications, from lambskin to satin, variously adorned with embroidery and sequins.
1000+ guests attended, including Vanessa Paradis, the new face of Chanel Lipstick, Chanel ambassador Anna Mouglalis, a posse of Bright Young Things from the Asian scene, and other assorted glitterati, artists, and celebs.
View a video from the show plus check out the entire collection at Chanel.com.
- Lesley Scott
(images: Terracotta soldiers; vintage Chinese movie posters; The Last Emperor poster)
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