1. Inspiring - Steinunn
Reflecting the raw beauty of her native Iceland, Steinunn's intimate show featured stunning artisanal knits and cocoon'y shapes. Unfortunately, by showing at the beginning of Fashion Week, the other seven days paled in comparison and felt like they headed downhill artistically.
2. Disappointing - Marc Jacobs
An odd ode to pastel boxiness, made worse by following right on the heels of a stellar spring collection devoted to sheer layers and clothes that were thought-provoking (really! check this out). When he admitted to Style.com that he "really wasn't very inspired this season," he wasn't kidding.
3. Successful Succession - Peter Som for Bill Blass
Inspired by lookbooks from the house dating back to 1969 and 1970, Bill Blass creative director Peter Som created covetable clothes for today's Blass brigade of finicky fashionistas, snooty insiders, and glamourous power mavens alike.
4. Over-Anticipated - Halston
That eccentricity you just felt in the earth's orbit? That would be the glittery fashion king of Studio 54 rolling in his grave at having his name attached to these lackluster Donna Karen'esque knits and stripped-down Calvin imitations. Harvey Weinstein's magic touch apparently ends at the border of Tinseltown.
5. Girlie Makeup - Proenza Schouler
Yes the standard smoky/smudgy/stormy/greasy (adjective du jour) eye is sexy and sophisticated, but blue eyeshadow is fun! Dick Page opted for pearly grey layered with cobalt, creating a playful standout in a somber sea of grown-up smokiness.
6. Cheeky - Zac Posen
Robert Palmer video vixens, Minnie Mouse & a bordello...credit goes to Posen for realizing this is fashion, not brain surgery. In an abysmal week of snoozeworthy "saleable" clothes, it's fun to see a flirty coquette prancing down the runway.
7. Fun Theme - Ports 1961 and Rag & Bone
A tie between Tia Cibani's journey to Scottish highlands with a Gaelic goddess as a guide, and the bleak futuristic edginess of Blade Runner at Rag & Bone.
8. Covetable Jewelry - 3.1 Phillip Lim
Ginormous strands of muted gold punctuated by coffee-cup diameter discs of cobalt, black and white; there isn't anything in your wardrobe this crafts-inspired piece wouldn't perk up. Second place goes to Marc Jacobs: a silver metal pearl-encruste "cravatte", chunky oversized organically-shaped cuffs, and a look-but-don't-dare-touch ring with cluster of three bronze gumballs sprouting a sharp spray of silver slivers.
9. Dashing Hats - Carolina Herrera
Resist the urge to yodel (or don't) or don Lederhosen (a definite don't) in one of these Tyrolean feather-trimmed Alpine hunting caps. And while you're at it, why not re-watch The Sound of Music?
10. Mod Accessories & Shoes - Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan & Abaeté
Leopard berets, vests, cocktail hats, bags and shoes at Ralph Lauren - meow! - burnished gold adorned gladiator stilettos (Donna Karan), and just plain affordable ($45 & under) from Abaeté for Payless.
- Lesley Scott
(photos: Steinunn - Mary Ellen Mark courtesy of Steinunn; runway photos - style.com)
||...& don't miss: