"This season, we drew inspiration from a juxtaposition of Japanese horror films and Alice in Wonderland, creating the look of a school-girl teetering on the edge in a very fantastical way," explain Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the design duo behind Rodarte. "The look graphically conveys both vulnerability and toughness—yet balance. Tulle and matted mohair drape across the body organically." James Kaliardos for MAC balanced the drama of the clothes and hair with a frosted "winter" lip, alternating sheer layers of matte and sheen on the plains of the face to replicate the light and texture of the fabrics. Hair maven Odile Gilbert for Aveda created sculptural, graphic tresses with contrasting colors and shaped into a square chignons, reminiscent of Japanese Kabuki theatre. "The hair look reflects the same inspirations as the collection. We created a very graphic, Japanese-inspired, glossy square chignon—in a barette shape—using the model’s own hair. We added a black v-shaped extension on blonde hair, and a blond extension on black hair for added drama."
In an effort to green things up, all backstage food was organic, tap water was dispensed in special non-toxic aluminum bottles, and the programs were printed on recycled paper. “Aveda’s efforts are in sync with our own values, so it’s a perfect match," notes Laura Mulleavy, who recently purchased a hybrid car. "We're very pleased with the green initiative this season; it is just one example of the many things we can do as individuals and in the fashion world to become more environmentally responsible.”
To get the Aveda-designed kabuki'esque coiffure, here is the step-by-step guide:
- Blow dry hair straight & spray Aveda Air Control Hair Spray all over head.
- Gather hair into high ponytail, smooth with a comb to seal in flyaways, and clip it out of the way so you can work on the hair underneath.
- If you're blonde, use black extensions, and if you're dark haired, opt for blonde - and wrap the extensions into a layer that measures 4 inches long and 3 inches wide.
- Starting directly beneath the ponytail down to the nape of the neck, use a bobby pin to fasten the extensions to your head in a V-shape. Trim any excess hair.
- Remove the clip from your ponytail, spray it with water, and pull it horizontally to the right.
- Fasten it to your head approximately one inch from the center.
- Loop hair horizontally to the left; fasten to the head the same distance from the center.
- Keep looping back and forth until all hair is used, coating each successive layer with Air Control Hair Spray.
- Voila! You have now (hopefully) created a square bun.
- Tuck the ends underneath, fasten in place, and douse with yet more hair spray.
- Lesley Scott
(photos: style.com & nymag.com; backstage courtesy of Aveda)
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