If you are a real rebel, someone who has the gumption to put yourself out there, and not just because its “in” to be unconventional, you wouldn’t reach for Alexander McQueen, Luella Bartley or L.A.M.B.—they are all much too overexposed and embraced by the mainstream. No, you, in your defiance and determination to prove your edgy-but-not-cliché self would reach for Akiko Ogawa.
Ogawa, who perhaps diluted her daring approach in previous seasons, made a clear move to regain herself and her carefully carved niche with a fall line that referenced fellow punk-slash-hipster designers (tartan with bows, 80’s glam metallics) without imitating them. The result was a powerful aesthetic, clearly grounded in her Japanese-based success, but with enough western influence to lend herself credence to the soon-to-be expats of Williamsburg and the L.E.S. (i.e., those who have already tapped into the next bigger, cooler hot spot).
- Ali Manning, Papierdoll.net