Shopping is my cardio. I know how cheesy this sounds, but it's an honest statement. I studied fashion because I thought designing would feel like buying. It doesn't. My dream would be to be able to afford the pleasure of splurging on something every time I walk out the door of my home. While I can't do this yet, I like to break down each season as if I could. The most pleasurable time, for me at least, to shop is on a warm summer day, ice coffee in hand. Unfortunately, this means I am shopping for fall. I much prefer shopping for summer clothing, but if the shoe fits....
BLOGETTE'S LIST-O-MANIA: MY 10 FAVORITE FALL COLLECTIONS
There is a chic ease to Cloe that no other designer seems to replicate. Phoebe Philo-who made news first as assistant to Ms. McCartney, then as head designer herself-had her loyal assistants finish the collection upon her 3 month maternity leave to have daughter, Maya. They did her proud. Not only was she front row cheering, Chloe is on every shoppers major hit list. The gorgeous, slouchy drape, beautiful laces, drop waist dresses and leather goods are spot on, as usual. I love the Bermuda shorts and wool capelet. Philo was on hand at the show to cheer on her team, as were Milla Jovovich and Lou Dillon, perennial fashion it-girls.
When I look at Zac Posen's age-to-success ratio, i feel sick. When I look at his Handy-work, I feel cured. With an ode to Joan Crawfordian glamour, Posen sent out very few day looks. But what he did send out was stellar. Balloon sleeve blouses, fitted skirts, draped gowns with gold cording at the waist and neck. No wonder his front row features the glam squad-including Ashley Olsen and Claire Danes. With his enterprise now backed by P.Diddy, you can only see his success elevating. So maybe he can send me one of those gorgeous blouses?
I am a UBOO fan. I have always liked the way the charm of what they do plays off the tradition they infuse their line with. While some feel their collection hearkened to Ghesquiere's Balenciaga of not too long ago, the mix of suiting, colour and shape were actually an homage to Solaris, Trakovsky's 1972 science fiction flick. Designers Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham were smart enough to juxtapose the theme-in the form of colour and interesting detail- against tradition- simple wools. The collection got even better after the colour section ended, producing a series of suits with genius cuts and gorgeous details.
There is a reason Stella McCartney has so many friends. Who wouldn't want to don her clothing? Another collection playing off of volume- she channeled vintage Balenciaga-- this was exquisite. I love the voluminous wool coats with ties, the over-sized sweaters and the simple colour scheme. My favorites were the short version of Gwyneth's Golden Globe dress in McCartney's signature pink, and her wool jackets which played up structure and volume somehow simultaneously. McCartney's team obviously loves her-they put the finishing touches on the collection as she gave birth to son Miller.
The theme of this post is pregnant Brits. Although Luella Bartley was panned for "rehashing" I always love her signature look. After a series of sweet, pussy bow blouses and slim cut skirts came beauteous prom dresses with little jackets. The highlight at the end was the series of paillette pieces-especially the skirt paired with a simple t-shirt. Natch, her accessories were up to par. Bliss.
Something about Mouret reminds me of Westwood. Channeling Veronica Lake, I love his complex cuts. The daywear was simple, tight and cropped. Fitted skirts with pea-coat boleros and lovely knits. His eveningwear is always divine-complex taffeta numbers.
I think one of my top 2 collections was Proenza. Per usual they did a kooky blend of truly feminine and super-hip-in the form of a tribute to mod-ish musical looks. Instead of going overboard, they infused the good feeling of the mod scene into their style-showing lovely silk corsets and belted girdles, slouchy pants and great jackets. I am dying for the houndstooth skirt. It helps that they are such lovely boys too!! Definitely don't miss their shoes or jewelry.
My other favorite. The austere, sometimes sever look of Boudicca is nothing short of fantastic. The almost all black collection was at once sharp and delicate. Their mastery is clearly tailoring, and they play it up completely. The balance between the delicate laces, knits embroidered with Olde English phrases such as Morissey, and the hard lines of their couture is impressive. My pick? The brown embossed leather puffer jacket.
Dries, to me at least, is the best of the Belgians. His mixture of grandeur and simplicity is striking, and he achieves it with such ease and balance, it is almost astonishing. While this collection had mixed reviews (some felt the intro was way too much of a downer) I loved it. The proportions of volume, the delicacy of fabric and the mix of colour were divine.
Peter Som is in the school of young New Yorkers making a name for himself. Som's girly, sweet cuts and beautiful fabrications make his collections ideal for all his socialite friends. Besides being a total fashion darling, he lives up to his name but producing season after season. I love the point d'sprit dresses and lacey shirts and jackets.
British darling, cool guy, genious tailor. I love his detailing. Someone buy me the above dress.