What was it about 1900?
From 1847 to 1900, Cartier functioned more as a retailer than anything else. According to Cartier 1900-1939 by Judy Rudoe, their merchandise was provided by other manufacturers and suppliers and was mostly comprised of two French faves: bijouterie - gold, enamel and semi-precious stone jewelry; and joaillerie - "high" jewelry crafted with diamonds and precious stones.
Then, in 1899, Cartier moved to Rue de la Paix, and everything changed. They set up an in-house design studio, and from 1906 on, photographs began to exist of their designs. Except for some religious medallions which Alfred Cartier brought in that were made by medallist Frederic de Vernon and produced by Felix Duval, and a Louis Aucoc peacock pendant, Cartier pretty much avoided the Art Nouveau style so popular at the time. Cartier's Neo-Classical designs were unlike those of almost any other house, favoring architectural details taken from Parisian buildings and Versailles - especially the garlands - and inspired by jewelry from the late 18th century.
Cartier's innovative use of platinum also made this design house stand alone - it's flexible, yet strong, properties meant that diamond-encrusted bling no longer had to be like "armour" according to Louis Cartier, and more like "embroidery."
i love cartier!
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